Ameer Randolph
Husqvarna 266 chainsaw owners may need to replace the fuel tank vent if it becomes plugged. This can be done by removing the clutch cover, top cover, and starter, and moving the air shroud up to access the bottom isolator screw. The fuel should be drained from the tank, and the two rear isolator screws removed. The tank can then be carefully separated from the crankcase to access the vent on the PTO side. The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but there are no threads in the tank, so a drywall screw must be used to pull it out.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Steps to replace | Take off the clutch cover, top cover, and starter |
| Move the air shroud up to access the bottom isolator screw | |
| Remove the other rear isolator screw | |
| Drain the fuel out of the tank | |
| Remove the two screws from the rear isolators | |
| Separate the tank from the crankcase to access the vent | |
| Use a drywall screw to pull the vent | |
| Repeat the procedure for the tube if it didn't come out | |
| Vent details | Threaded with a screwdriver slot |
| No threads in the tank |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the clutch cover, top cover, and starter
To remove the clutch cover, top cover, and starter of a Husqvarna 266 chainsaw, follow these steps:
- Move the air shroud up to access the bottom isolator screw.
- Remove the rear isolator screw on the same side.
- Drain the fuel from the tank to avoid spills.
- Flip the chainsaw over and remove the two screws from the rear isolators on the other side. There is no need to adjust the front isolators.
- Carefully separate the fuel tank from the crankcase to access the vent on the PTO side, next to the top rear isolator.
- The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but the tank is not threaded. Use a drywall screw to pull the vent out.
- If necessary, repeat the procedure for the tube.
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Moving the air shroud up to access the bottom isolator screw
To replace the fuel tank vent on a Husqvarna 266 chainsaw, you will need to move the air shroud up to access the bottom isolator screw. This is a crucial step as it allows you to reach the necessary components for the replacement process.
Here's a step-by-step guide on how to move the air shroud up and access the bottom isolator screw:
- Before beginning, ensure the chainsaw is turned off and cooled down. This is important for safety reasons and to avoid any potential injuries.
- Locate the air shroud, which is typically found near the clutch cover and top cover. It may be attached with screws or clips, so have the appropriate tools ready to remove it carefully.
- Using a screwdriver or relevant tool, loosen any screws or fasteners holding the air shroud in place. Be gentle to avoid stripping the screws or damaging the surrounding components.
- Once the screws are removed, carefully lift the air shroud upwards. It may be attached to other components, so take note of any wires or connections that need to be detached before completely removing the shroud.
- As you lift the air shroud, you will gain access to the bottom isolator screw. This screw is crucial for securing the isolator, which helps reduce vibrations and provides stability to the chainsaw.
- With the air shroud moved up, you can now easily reach and manipulate the bottom isolator screw. This will be necessary for the next steps in replacing the fuel tank vent.
By following these steps, you will be able to safely and effectively move the air shroud up and access the bottom isolator screw on your Husqvarna 266 chainsaw, setting you up for the rest of the fuel tank vent replacement process. Remember to work carefully and methodically, and always refer to the manufacturer's instructions or a qualified technician if you have any doubts or concerns.
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Draining the fuel tank
To drain the fuel tank of your Husqvarna 266 chainsaw, you'll need to take off the clutch cover, top cover, and starter. Move the air shroud up so you can get to the bottom isolator screw. Remove the other rear isolator screw on that side. Drain the fuel out of the tank, even if it's only half full, as it tends to make a mess. Flip to the other side and remove the two screws from the rear isolators. You don't need to mess with the front isolators.
Now, you can carefully separate the tank from the crankcase enough to gain access to the vent on the PTO side next to the top rear isolator. The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but there are no threads in the tank. That's why you have to use a drywall screw to pull the vent. Lever a needle nose against the rear isolator to remove the vent. Repeat the procedure for the tube if it didn't come out.
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Removing the two screws from the rear isolators
To remove the two screws from the rear isolators, you will first need to take off the clutch cover, top cover, and starter. Move the air shroud up so you can get to the bottom isolator screw. Drain the fuel out of the tank, even if it's only half full, as it tends to make a mess. Flip to the other side and remove the two screws from the rear isolators. You don't need to mess with the front isolators.
The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but there are no threads in the tank. That's why you have to use a drywall screw to pull the vent. You can lever a needle nose against the rear isolator to remove the vent. Repeat the procedure for the tube if it didn't come out.
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Separating the tank from the crankcase to access the vent
To separate the tank from the crankcase to access the vent, you must first take off the clutch cover, top cover, and starter. Move the air shroud up so you can get to the bottom isolator screw. Remove the other rear isolator screw on that side. Drain the fuel out of the tank, even if it's only half full, as it tends to make a mess. Flip to the other side and remove the two screws from the rear isolators. You don't need to mess with the front isolators. Now, you can carefully separate the tank from the crankcase enough to gain access to the vent on the PTO side next to the top rear isolator. The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but there are no threads in the tank. That's why you have to use a drywall screw to pull the vent. Lever the needle nose against the rear isolator.
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Frequently asked questions
If your saw is not running properly, open the fuel cap. If the saw then runs fine, you know the vent is plugged and needs replacing.
You will need to take off the clutch cover, top cover, and starter. Move the air shroud up so you can get to the bottom isolator screw. Remove the other rear isolator screw on that side. Drain the fuel out of the tank. Flip to the other side and remove the two screws from the rear isolators. Now, you can carefully separate the tank from the crankcase enough to gain access to the vent on the PTO side next to the top rear isolator.
The vent is threaded and has a screwdriver slot, but there are no threads in the tank. That's why you have to use a drywall screw to pull the vent. Lever a needle nose against the rear isolator and it should come out easily.
