
Flaring a steel fuel line can be a tricky task, and there are a few reasons why your 3/8 steel fuel lines may not be flaring properly. One common issue is that the line slips in the flaring tool, which can be due to the clamping force not being strong enough to keep the line in place. This can sometimes be fixed by lightly sanding the inner faces of the clamps to increase the gap between them when clamping the tube. Additionally, some types of steel tubing, such as stainless steel (SS), can be challenging to flare and may require proper annealing to create a double flare. It's also important to note that single flares are typically sufficient for attaching rubber hose to hard lines, as the flare is not used as a crush seal.
Why won't my 3/8 steel fuel lines flare?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fuel line material | Steel, stainless steel, rubber, nylon, aluminium |
| Fuel line length | 20' |
| Fuel line thickness | 3/8" |
| Fuel pump type | Mechanical, high flow, electric |
| Vehicle type | Car |
| Vehicle make/model | Valiant, Coronet |
| Vehicle age | 1968, 1969 |
| Tools used | Flaring tool, tubing bender, belt sander, Dremel, tubing cutter |
| Issues | Line slipping in flaring tool, tubing crushed during bending, leaks |
| Solutions | Sanding clamp faces, using compression fittings, SS braided lines, pre-bent lines |
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What You'll Learn

The line slipping in the flaring tool
If your brake lines keep slipping out of the flaring clamp, there are several methods you can try to fix this issue.
One user recommends lightly clamping the two halves of the flaring tool clamp in a vise so that the top and bottom faces are level with each other. This means that the holes in the flaring tool clamp should be horizontal, not vertical. If the flaring face of the clamp is not level, you will get a lopsided flare.
Another user suggests that you put the cut, filed, and chamfered line into the clamp, then measure the shoulder height for the flare. Next, tighten the clamp furthest away from the line, then the one closest. You can then use a screwdriver to go 2-3 turns past where you can hand-tighten the wing nut clamps. It is important to note that this method is only suitable for stainless steel brake lines, as standard steel will be crushed.
A third user has a similar method, where they first put the black piece with the nipple going into the inside of the line, then put the assembly in a vice and tighten it. They then put the flaring tool onto the clamp and tighten it. This user also had a Rigid 345 tool, and they super-tightened both their work vise and the flaring clamp, but the line still slipped out.
One user suggests that the problem may be that the two faces of the clamp touch each other before enough clamping force is exerted on the tube to keep it in place. They recommend lightly sanding the inner faces of the clamps to increase the gap between them when a piece of the tube is being clamped in the tool. They advise only taking 1/64" off of each face.
Finally, one user had a similar issue and found that exchanging their tool for a new one solved the problem.
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Using the wrong flaring tool
There are different types of flaring tools available, including 37-degree flare tools and 45-degree flare tools, and it is essential to choose the correct one for your specific application. 45-degree flares are commonly used, while 37-degree flares are often used for high-performance braking components, high-pressure EFI-compatible fuel lines, and aftermarket pieces with AN fittings.
Additionally, it is crucial to properly secure the flaring tool during use. The flaring tool should be clamped securely in a vice, and it is important to follow safety precautions such as wearing eye protection and gloves to avoid injuries from ejected particles and sharp edges.
Furthermore, it is worth noting that flaring fuel lines, especially stainless steel (SS) lines, can be challenging. Some people have reported issues with creating reliable double flares when using SS lines, and it may be advisable to consider alternative options such as SS braided lines or other materials like aluminum.
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Not properly annealing the line
If the steel fuel line has not been properly annealed, it may be too hard and brittle, which can lead to cracking or failure during the flaring process. The annealing process helps to relieve internal stresses in the metal, improving its malleability and flexibility. Without proper annealing, the steel fuel line may not have the necessary ductility to undergo the deformation required for flaring.
To ensure proper annealing, it is important to follow the correct procedure. This includes heating the steel fuel line to the appropriate temperature, which is typically around 1500-1600 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the specific alloy and dimensions of the tube. Holding the temperature for the specified time allows the formation of a uniform microstructure, ensuring consistent properties throughout the tube.
Slow cooling, or "furnace cooling," is another critical step in the annealing process. This gradual cooling process helps to maintain the desired microstructure and prevents the formation of hard, brittle areas within the steel fuel line. Rapid cooling, such as quenching in oil or water, should be avoided, as it can lead to increased hardness and reduced ductility.
By properly annealing the 3/8-inch steel fuel line, you can improve its workability and reduce the risk of cracking or failure during flaring. It is important to follow the recommended annealing procedure for the specific type of steel and tube dimensions to ensure successful results. Improper annealing can lead to undesirable material characteristics, making it challenging to flare the fuel line without causing damage. Therefore, taking the time to properly anneal the line is crucial for achieving the desired outcome.
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Not using a belt sander
If you're working with stainless steel fuel lines, you may encounter issues with sealing due to the hardness of the material. Stainless steel is harder than mild steel, so it doesn't deform as well to fit the taper. This can lead to leaks, which are dangerous when working with fuel lines. To address this issue, you may need to "burnish or lap" the flares to get them to seal properly. This involves snugging the fitting, spinning the line around a few times, and then tightening it further. This technique has proven effective in preventing leaks in stainless steel fuel lines.
When it comes to creating flares in your fuel lines, using a flaring tool is essential. However, simply clamping a piece of tubing in the tool might not be enough to achieve a secure hold. This is where the belt sander comes into play. By lightly sanding the inner faces of the clamps that touch each other, you can increase the gap between them. This simple modification can make a significant difference in the tool's performance, allowing you to create precise and attractive flares.
While a belt sander can be a useful tool in certain situations, it's important to recognize that it may not be the best choice for every task. In the context of fuel line flares, a belt sander is not necessary for achieving a successful outcome. There are alternative methods and tools that can be employed to accomplish the same goal. For instance, a flat file can be used to file the tube flat and level, as mentioned by one individual who successfully created their own fuel lines. This manual approach may require more physical effort but can still yield satisfactory results.
Additionally, it's worth noting that the use of a belt sander may not be compatible with all types of clamps or flaring tools. In some cases, disassembling the clamp to access the inner faces for sanding could potentially damage the clip that holds the clamp together. While this may be acceptable in certain situations, it underscores the importance of carefully considering the specific tools and techniques required for your project. It may be more prudent to explore other options before resorting to modifying your equipment with a belt sander.
In conclusion, while a belt sander can be a handy tool for certain applications, it is not a mandatory requirement for flaring fuel lines. With proper techniques and alternative tools, you can achieve successful flares without the need for a belt sander. However, if you encounter specific issues, such as sealing problems with stainless steel lines, focusing on techniques like burnishing or lapping the flares might be a more targeted solution. Ultimately, the choice of tools and methods will depend on your unique circumstances and the specific challenges you encounter during your project.
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Not using compression fittings
When dealing with fuel lines, compression fittings offer a secure and reliable way to join steel tubes. They provide a flare-free means of connecting the lines, ensuring a leak-proof seal. This is especially important when working with flammable liquids, such as fuel, to prevent dangerous leaks and potential fires.
By not utilizing compression fittings, you are missing out on their unique advantages. These fittings are designed to accommodate minor misalignments or tube imperfections. They can compensate for slight variations in tube diameter or irregularities on the tube surface. This adaptability is key to ensuring a successful flare, as it guarantees a secure connection despite minor flaws or inconsistencies in the tubing.
Additionally, compression fittings offer the benefit of easy assembly and disassembly. They do not require specialized tools or techniques for installation, making them a convenient choice for both professionals and DIY enthusiasts. This feature also simplifies maintenance and repairs, as the fittings can be easily loosened and tightened by hand, eliminating the need for complex tools or expertise. Therefore, if you're encountering issues with flaring your 3/8 steel fuel lines, considering compression fittings as a solution can save you time and effort.
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Frequently asked questions
You may need to use a different flaring tool.
A 37-degree flaring tool is needed to attach AN fittings to your lines.
You can use compression fittings on the ends of the fuel line as an alternative to flaring.
You can try lightly sanding the inner faces of the clamps that hold the tube in the flaring tool.
You can use rubber hose for your fuel lines, which OEMs have been using for years, and some sources say it can last up to 20 years.









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