Replacing The Fuel Pump In Your '57 Chevy

Replacing the fuel pump on a 1957 Chevy is a complex task that requires careful preparation and execution. The process involves accessing the fuel pump, which may be located in the engine bay or inside the fuel tank, and then removing and replacing it with a new one. Before beginning the replacement, it is important to ensure that the engine is cool and that any necessary tools and safety equipment are readily available. Additionally, it is recommended to consult repair manuals or seek advice from experienced individuals to ensure the procedure is carried out correctly.

Prepare to catch gas from the pump-to-tank line

When replacing the fuel pump on a 1957 Chevy, it is important to prepare for the removal of the old pump and the installation of the new one. One key step is to get ready to catch gas from the pump-to-tank line. This is because, when the fuel pump is removed, there will be residual gas in the line that needs to be contained and properly disposed of.

To prepare for this, you will need to have some sort of container ready to catch the gas. This could be a gas can, a bucket, or any other suitable container that can hold a few gallons of gas. It is important to use a container that is specifically designed for holding gasoline, as gasoline is a highly flammable liquid and needs to be stored safely. Make sure the container is clean and dry before you begin the fuel pump replacement process.

In addition to the container, you will also need some tools to help you catch the gas safely. One option is to use a siphon pump, which will allow you to transfer the gas from the line into the container without spilling. You can find siphon pumps at most auto parts stores or hardware stores. Another option is to use a piece of hose that is long enough to reach from the pump-to-tank line to your container. If you use this method, be very careful to seal the connection between the hose and the line to prevent any gas from leaking out.

It is also important to work in a well-ventilated area when dealing with gasoline. Make sure the area is clear of any sparks or open flames, as gasoline vapors can be highly explosive. It is also a good idea to wear gloves and eye protection when handling gasoline to protect your skin and eyes from irritation.

By preparing in advance and having the proper tools and safety equipment on hand, you can safely catch the gas from the pump-to-tank line when replacing the fuel pump on your 1957 Chevy.

Place the engine on top dead centre

To place the engine on top dead centre (TDC), you must first identify the engine's number one cylinder. All cylinders in an engine are numbered, and while the numbering strategy varies by automaker, cylinder #1 is always closest to the crankshaft pulley.

Once you have identified the #1 cylinder, you can then look for the timing marks. These marks are usually on the crankshaft pulley, although some cars have them on the flywheel. There will be one or a few narrow grooves notched into the lip of the pulley, and sometimes these marks will be accompanied by a dash of paint. There will also be a notch or a line or some kind of indicator on the timing cover immediately by the crank pulley. When the correct notch on the crank pulley is precisely in line with the correct line or notch on the timing cover, it means that cylinder #1 is at TDC.

If you are working on an older engine, the timing marks on the cover and pulley can be unreliable, as they may have worn off over time. In this case, it is best to use a piston stop tool. A piston stop tool is a simple device that can be bought for around $10. Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1 and thread in the piston stop tool. Then, gently rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand until it stops. Do not force it and do not use a starter motor, as this will damage the piston. When the piston touches the piston stop tool in cylinder #1, make a mark on the crank pulley where it lines up with the indicator on the timing cover. Then, rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until it touches the piston stop tool again and make another mark on the crank pulley. The midpoint between these two marks is the engine's true TDC.

Another way to determine when the engine is at TDC is to remove the #1 spark plug and put a straw down the hole so that it rests on top of the piston. As you turn the crank, the straw will move up and down. When it is at its apex just before it begins to fall, the engine is at TDC.

It is important to note that in a four-stroke engine, each piston will hit TDC twice in the course of a full combustion cycle, once between the exhaust and intake strokes, and once between compression and combustion. When a procedure calls for putting the engine at TDC, it usually refers to piston #1 being at TDC before the intake stroke.

Additionally, when placing the engine at TDC, make sure the transmission is in neutral or, if you are doing major work, completely disconnected from the engine. If the engine is fully assembled, it can be difficult to turn by hand due to engine compression. Even with the heads off, the friction between the pistons and the cylinder walls will prevent the crank from spinning easily.

Finally, be sure to check that the #1 piston is truly at TDC. Pull the spark plug and ensure that the piston is at TDC when the crankshaft mark also indicates TDC.

Remove the pump plate and push rod

To remove the pump plate and push rod, you will need to get your engine to top dead center 0 on the timing mark for cylinder #1 firing. This will ensure the fuel pump push rod is at its most relaxed position, meaning there is the least pressure on the pump lever.

Once you have the engine in this position, you can remove the pump, and the rod will fall down against the plate. It is relatively straightforward from here—simply remove the two small bolts or screws, pop the plate off, and pull the rod out. You can then clean the rod and apply a thick layer of grease to about one-third of the rod, which will help to hold it in place when you put everything back together.

If your engine is still mounted by the front original mount, you may want to avoid the following method. However, if your engine has been converted to side mounts, you can try removing the upper bolt from the original engine mount system at the front of the block, in the area of the pump. Carefully screw in a longer bolt until it makes contact with the fuel pump rod to hold it in place while you swap out the pump.

Clean and grease the push rod

To clean and grease the push rod, start by removing the two small bolts or screws that hold the plate covering the push rod in place. Once the plate is off, pull out the rod and clean it thoroughly. You can use a grease such as "Lucas Red 'n' Tacky" or engine assembly lube to grease the rod. Apply a generous amount of grease to about a third of the rod, focusing on the section that pushes up into the block.

If your rod shows signs of wear, or if you are running a roller cam, consider replacing it with a bronze or brass tip rod or a composite rod. Check with the cam manufacturer if you are unsure.

Once the rod is cleaned and greased, push it back into place as far as it will go. It should stay in place, especially if the engine is cold. Reattach the plate with a new gasket and install the new fuel pump.

Reinsert the push rod and replace the pump plate

To reinsert the push rod and replace the pump plate, you must first ensure the engine is on top dead center 0 on the timing mark for #1 cylinder firing. This is when the fuel pump push rod is at its most relaxed position, meaning there is the least pressure on the pump lever. Once the engine is in this position, the push rod will fall down against the plate.

Next, apply grease to the push rod. You can use engine assembly lube or wheel bearing grease, but ensure the rod is wiped as dry as possible first so that the grease sticks better. You can pack the rod with a thick layer or just lightly coat it. The grease will help the rod stay in place.

Now, carefully push the rod back as far as it will go. It should stay in place, especially if the engine is cold. Then, replace the pump plate with a new gasket and bolt it into place.

If your engine is still mounted by the front original mount, do not attempt to remove the upper bolt and insert a longer bolt to hold the rod in place while you swap out the pump. This is because the mount will likely move, and you will have a difficult time getting the bolt back in. However, if your engine has been converted to side mounts, you might try this method.

Frequently asked questions