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Replacing a fuel gauge sender is a common fix for older vehicles and boats. The fuel gauge sender is a device that transmits data from the fuel tank to the fuel gauge, telling the driver how much fuel is left. The sender is located in the fuel tank and attached to the fuel pump. It has a base with a rod and float attached. The float is hollow and light so that it can sit on top of the fuel without sinking. When the fuel tank fills up, the float moves, and the rod attached to the float moves across the coil, connecting a different resistance pattern.
If the fuel gauge is faulty, it may read empty when there is fuel in the tank, or constantly read as full. This could be due to a faulty sender unit, a faulty gauge, or a break in the wiring between the gauge and sender. Before attempting to replace the fuel gauge sender, it is important to check that the gauge is receiving 12 volts of power. If there is no voltage, the fault is in the ignition circuit. If there is voltage, the sender, the gauge, or its wiring may be the issue.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Tools Required | Flathead screwdriver, fuel-resistant gloves, ratchet with metric and standard sockets |
Fuel Gauge Sender Location | Inside the fuel tank, attached to the fuel pump |
Sender Function | Transmits data from the fuel tank to the fuel gauge |
Sender Appearance | Base with a rod and float attached |
Sender Failure Signs | Fuel gauge registering overfull when the tank is full, gauge registering 1/8 to 1/4 tank left when the tank is empty |
Sender Failure Causes | Sliding of the rod up and down within the rheostat, particles from the bottom of large storage tanks at gas stations, excessive water in the fuel, wiring corrosion |
Fuel Gauge Failure Signs | Gauge not registering the correct amount of fuel |
Fuel Gauge Failure Causes | Fault in the ignition circuit, faulty wiring, loose connections, corrosion |
Fuel Gauge Sender Replacement | Purchase a new sender unit, ensure it matches the resistance in the sender's rheostat, modify the length of the sender arm to fit fuel tank dimensions, install the new sender unit and reconnect the wiring |
Safety Precautions | Work in a well-ventilated area, ensure no electrical sparks are possible by disconnecting the negative battery cable, roll down windows, cover part of the work area with plastic and a towel to catch escaping fuel |
What You'll Learn
How to identify a faulty fuel gauge sender
A faulty fuel gauge sender can cause a lot of problems, from inaccurate readings to getting stranded with an empty tank. Here are some detailed symptoms to help you identify a faulty fuel gauge sender:
Erratic Gauge Behaviour
The fuel gauge shouldn't fluctuate rapidly or behave erratically. If you observe erratic behaviour, such as the gauge suddenly changing its position or giving you an inaccurate reading, it could be a sign of a faulty fuel gauge sender. For example, the gauge might show half a tank one minute and then suddenly jump to full. This erratic behaviour can make it challenging for you to determine when to refuel your vehicle.
Gauge Stuck on Empty
If your gauge is stuck on empty, even after you've recently filled up the tank, it could indicate a defective fuel gauge sender. This issue often occurs when the float is defective or separated from the arm, causing the sending unit to malfunction. A faulty resistor can also lead to an empty reading.
Gauge Stuck on Full
Although less frequent, the gauge may display full when the sender is malfunctioning. This usually happens when the resistor sends an incorrect signal to the instrument cluster, resulting in a faulty reading. In this case, you will need to track the mileage after each refuelling to determine the actual fuel level until the issue is resolved.
Fluctuating Readings
Another sign of a faulty fuel gauge sender is fluctuating readings. The needle moves erratically and doesn't provide a stable indication of the fuel level. This unreliable behaviour can be frustrating and make it challenging to know whether you're close to running out of fuel or have enough reserve.
Engine Stalling
In some cases, a malfunctioning fuel sender unit can cause the engine to stall unexpectedly due to an insufficient fuel supply. This happens when the sender fails to accurately detect the fuel level in the tank, resulting in an inadequate amount of gasoline being supplied for proper combustion.
OBD-II Trouble Codes
If the "Check Engine" light is illuminated on your dashboard, you can use an OBD-II scanner to read the trouble codes and identify potential issues with the fuel sending unit. Common codes related to the fuel sending unit include P0460, P0461, P0462, P0463, and P0464, which indicate a malfunction or issue with the fuel level sensor circuit.
Fuse-Related Problems
If other gauges, in addition to the fuel gauge, are acting up, it could be a fuse-related issue. Check the fuses for the fuel gauge and replace any blown fuses. A blown fuse can cause the instrument cluster to malfunction.
Inaccurate Voltage Readings
Using a multimeter, you can check the voltage of the fuel gauge wire. If it's not receiving the correct voltage (typically 12 volts), there may be an issue with the wiring, such as a corroded wire or loose connection.
Corrosion or Damage
Inspect the fuel sending unit for any signs of corrosion or damage. Ensure that it is seated correctly in the tank and that all connections are secure. Corroded wires or loose connections can lead to inaccurate readings.
Incorrect Output Voltage
Check the output voltage of the fuel sending unit to ensure it matches the voltage at the fuel gauge. If there is a discrepancy, it indicates corrosion or poor wiring between the sending unit and the fuel gauge.
Resistance or Ohm Issues
Finally, if all other checks have been completed, you can test the resistance or Ohms of the fuel sending unit by removing it from the tank and manipulating the float arm while measuring the resistance. If the Ohms are correct but the gauge still shows the wrong fuel level, there is a wiring issue. If the Ohms are incorrect, the fuel sending unit likely needs to be replaced.
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How to remove the old fuel gauge sender
Before beginning work on your vehicle, it is important to take safety precautions. Disconnect the negative battery cable to ensure no electrical sparks are possible. You are working with fuel, which is highly flammable. Additionally, work in a well-ventilated area to prevent the inhalation of fumes.
The fuel gauge sender is located in the fuel tank and attached to the fuel pump. It has a base with a rod and float attached to it. The float is hollow and lightweight, allowing it to sit on top of the fuel without sinking.
To access the fuel tank sending unit, you will need to lift the backseat or trunk carpet and locate the access cover, which is usually held in place by a couple of screws. Remove the screws and take off the cover to reveal the fuel tank sending unit.
Another safety note: by removing the fuel tank sending unit, you are opening the gas tank. Be sure there are no sources of sparks or flames nearby. Always perform this repair outside, with the windows of your vehicle rolled down.
With the access cover removed, you will see the fuel tank sending unit. It will have a wiring harness plugged into the top, which sends information to the gas gauge about the fuel level. Unplug the wiring harness and move it to the side.
If your fuel tank sending unit is screwed or bolted in place, remove the screws or bolts. Some units have a bayonet fitting with lugs in the flange. If your unit is a "twist-lock" type, you will see notches along the outer ring. Place the tip of a sturdy, flat-head screwdriver in the notch and gently tap it counter-clockwise to loosen it.
Now, carefully remove the fuel tank sending unit. It has a long rod with a float at the end, so you may need to try different angles to get it out without bending the rod, as this will cause the gauge to give false readings.
Once the old unit is removed, you can install the new one, following the manufacturer's instructions.
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How to install the new fuel gauge sender
Before installing a new fuel gauge sender, you must identify the cause of the fault. Check the fuel gauge to see how much fuel there is in reference to the actual amount of fuel in the fuel tank. If the fuel gauge is faulty, it must be replaced. If the gauge is good, the next step is to check the other system components, as either the wire running to the sender or the sender itself may be faulty.
Once you have identified the fault and purchased a replacement, you can install the new fuel gauge sender. Here is a step-by-step guide:
- Park your vehicle on a flat, hard surface and engage the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks around the front tires.
- Install a nine-volt battery saver into your cigarette lighter to keep your computer live and your settings current.
- Open the vehicle's hood and disconnect the battery. Take the ground cable off the battery's negative post to disable the power to the fuel pump and sending unit.
- Lift the vehicle at its specified jacking points until the wheels are off the ground.
- Place jack stands under the jacking point locations and lower the vehicle.
- Remove the fuel filler cap cable from the fuel neck and open the fuel door to access the fuel filler neck.
- Remove the mounting screws or bolts attached to the cutaway.
- Locate the fuel tank under the vehicle.
- Lower the fuel tank slightly and loosen and remove the straps.
- Disconnect the harness from the connector by reaching up to the top of the fuel tank.
- Lower the fuel tank further to access the vent hose. Remove the clamp and small vent hose for clearance.
- Remove the fuel filler neck by twisting it out of the rubber hose. Guide it out of the area and remove the clamp on the rubber hose.
- Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle, ensuring you transfer any fuel out of the tank first.
- Clean the harness on the vehicle and the connector to the fuel pump or sending unit on the fuel tank.
- Remove any dirt and debris around the fuel pump and sender mounting area.
- Remove the mounting bolts to the fuel pump and sender. Pull out the fuel pump and sender from the fuel tank and take out the rubber seal.
- Install a new rubber gasket and the fuel pump with the new sender into the fuel tank.
- Install the mounting bolts and tighten them by hand, then turn them an additional 1/8 turn.
- Place the fuel tank back under the vehicle and wipe out the rubber hose with a lint-free cloth.
- Put a new clamp on the rubber hose and twist the fuel filler neck into it. Tighten the clamp and ensure the filler neck does not move.
- Raise the fuel tank to attach the vent hose using a new clamp. Tighten the clamp and turn it an additional 1/8 turn.
- Raise the fuel tank further to align the fuel filler neck with the cutaway. Tighten the clamp to secure the neck in place.
- Raise the fuel tank to connect the harness to the fuel pump or sending unit.
- Attach the fuel tank straps and tighten them until they stop. Torque the mounting nuts to the specified value or, if unknown, tighten them an additional 1/8 turn with thread locker.
- Align the fuel filler neck with the cutaway in the fuel door area. Install the mounting screws or bolts and secure them tightly.
- Attach the cable of the fuel filler cap to the neck and screw on the cap until it locks in place.
- Refill the fuel tank and check for leaks.
It is important to note that senders are usually not "plug and play" units. The length of the sender arm may need modification to fit your fuel tank dimensions. Additionally, ensure you take safety precautions when working with fuel, as gasoline is highly flammable. Always work in a well-ventilated area and disconnect the battery to prevent electrical sparks.
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How to check for leaks
Once you have replaced the fuel gauge sender, you will need to check for leaks. Here's how to do it:
Step 1: Get a transfer tank or a portable fuel can
Remove the fuel filler cap and empty the fuel into the fuel filler neck, fueling up the tank. Try not to drain any fuel onto the ground or neck area.
Step 2: Check for leaks
Wait 15 minutes away from the vehicle. After 15 minutes, return to the vehicle and check for leaks. Look under the vehicle for any fuel drops and sniff around to see if you smell any vapors. You can use a combustible gas detector to check for any vapor leaks that you cannot smell.
Step 3: Tighten connections
If you find a leak, check the connections to see if they are tight. If you had to make adjustments, be sure to check for leaks again before continuing.
Note: If there are any vapor leaks, the vapor sensor will pick up the leak and display the engine light when driving.
Step 4: Refuel and test drive
If there are no leaks, refuel the vehicle and test drive it. During the test, go over different bumps to allow the fuel to slosh around inside the fuel tank. Monitor the dashboard for the fuel level and for any engine light to appear.
If the engine light comes on after replacing the fuel gauge sender, then there may be a need for further diagnosis of the fuel system or a possible electrical issue within the system. If the problem persists, seek help from a certified mechanic to inspect the fuel gauge sender and diagnose the problem.
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How to restore the car to normal
- Open the vehicle's hood. Reconnect the ground cable back to the battery's negative post. Ensure that the connection is good.
- Tighten the battery clamp.
- If you did not use a nine-volt battery saver, you will have to reset all the settings in your vehicle, such as your radio, electric seats, and electric mirrors.
- Lift the vehicle. Lift under the vehicle at its specified jacking points until the wheels are completely off the ground.
- Remove the jack stands. Place them away from the vehicle.
- Lower the vehicle so that all four wheels are on the ground. Pull out the jack and put it aside.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Test drive the vehicle
- Drive the vehicle around the block. During the test, go over different bumps to allow the fuel to slosh around inside the fuel tank.
- Monitor the dashboard for the fuel level and for any engine light to appear.
- If the engine light comes on after replacing the fuel gauge sender, there may be a need for further diagnosis of the fuel system or a possible electrical issue within the fuel system. If the problem persists, seek help from a certified mechanic.
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Frequently asked questions
If your gas gauge is stuck on empty, or if you've been running out of gas regularly, you might need to replace your fuel gauge sender.
Before you begin, disconnect the negative battery cable to ensure no electrical sparks are possible. You should also work in a well-ventilated area to prevent breathing in fumes.
You will need a flathead screwdriver, a ratchet with metric and standard sockets, and fuel-resistant gloves.