Replacing The Fuel Door On Your Classic 68 Firebird

how to replace a fuel door on a 68 firebird

The fuel door on a 68 Firebird can be challenging to replace, but it's a task that can be completed in a few hours. The process involves disassembling parts of the car interior, removing the old cable, and installing a new one. It is important to be careful when handling the various components to avoid damage and injury. The fuel door tension spring, which is used to keep tension on the fuel filler door, should also be replaced if damaged or broken. This will ensure the proper operation of the fuel door.

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Replacing the fuel door tension spring

Overview:

This guide will cover the process of replacing the fuel door tension spring on a 1967 or 1968 Firebird. This spring is essential to keep tension on the fuel filler door, ensuring it remains closed when not in use. Over time, the spring can become damaged or break, requiring replacement.

Tools and Parts Required:

  • Replacement fuel door tension spring (ensure it is compatible with the 1967-1968 Firebird)
  • Basic hand tools (screwdrivers, etc.)
  • Work gloves (for safety)
  • Protective eyewear (for safety)

Step-by-Step Procedure:

  • Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
  • Locate the fuel filler door on the rear quarter panel of the vehicle.
  • Open the fuel filler door and support it in the open position with a piece of rope or a bungee cord. This will provide access to the tension spring assembly.
  • Using the appropriate screwdriver, remove the screws or other fasteners securing the fuel filler door hinge and bracket assembly. There may be clips or other attachments that need to be carefully released.
  • Carefully remove the entire fuel filler door assembly, being mindful of any attached wires or hoses. Place it on a clean, flat surface.
  • Inspect the tension spring. If it is damaged, rusty, or broken, proceed to replace it.
  • Using gloves and eyewear, carefully grasp the old tension spring and compress it to release tension. Remove it from its mounting points, being aware that it may be under pressure.
  • Take the new tension spring and compress it slightly to line up with the mounting points. Ensure it is oriented correctly.
  • Attach the new tension spring to the mounting points, ensuring it is securely fastened.
  • Reinstall the fuel filler door assembly, ensuring all fasteners are tightened and clips are in place.
  • Test the operation of the fuel filler door to ensure it opens and closes smoothly and securely.
  • Return any removed components to their original locations and secure them.

Tips and Troubleshooting:

  • When removing and installing the fuel filler door assembly, be careful not to damage any attached wires or hoses.
  • If the new tension spring does not seem to fit properly, double-check the part number and compatibility with your specific Firebird model.
  • If the fuel filler door still does not stay closed after spring replacement, inspect the hinge and bracket assembly for any damage or misalignment.
  • Always wear appropriate safety gear, including gloves and eye protection, when working on your vehicle.

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Removing the rear quarter panel

The first step in replacing the fuel door on a 68 Firebird is to remove the rear quarter panel. This can be a challenging task, but it is doable with the right tools and patience. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to remove the rear quarter panel:

  • Procure the necessary parts: Before beginning the removal process, ensure you have all the necessary parts, such as a new retaining clip, which can be purchased for a couple of bucks. The entire deal should cost around $30 USD.
  • Lift and disassemble: Use a jack to lift the car and start disassembling the rear fender liner. Leave two or three fasteners at the back for easier access to the cable behind the fuel door.
  • Remove side vent and drain flap housing: Pop out the side vent and the drain flap housing; they should come out straight without unscrewing.
  • Remove the driver's seat and interior trim: Take out the driver's seat, remembering to unplug the weight sensor. Then, remove the door scuff liner, vertical molding, cubby door, and side panel inside the cubby.
  • Locate and access the cable: Find the cable near the driver's seat and access it by pushing back the carpet and creating some slack.
  • Remove the plastic cover around the lock: Pull and lift the front edge of the plastic cover to remove it. Wiggle out the back hook and, if needed, remove the rear bolt holding the cable housing.
  • Detach the cable: Remove the jacket end from the retaining slot, then unhook the cable itself. This step may require some finesse and patience.
  • Take out the rubber seal: Use your fingertips to pinch and pop out the rubber seal around the body penetration.
  • Release the rear end of the cable: Instead of turning the retaining ring/clip, reach up and turn the cable itself. The thumb tabs are larger and easier to manipulate in the cramped compartment.
  • Extract the old cable: Carefully pull out the old cable, being mindful of the surrounding electrical wiring. You may want to tie a string to the end of the cable to ensure a smooth extraction.
  • Feed the new cable: Thread the new cable through the same path as the old one, being careful not to kink or damage it. Ensure it sits perpendicular to the panel for easier installation of the rubber grommet.
  • Secure the front of the new cable: Attach the front of the new cable to the gold box and hook it onto the lever. This step may require some patience and finesse.
  • Attach the rear of the new cable: Feed the cable end through the hole and secure it with the retaining ring/clip. Ensure you have enough slack in the cable to avoid kinks.
  • Adjust cable tension: Even out the cable tension, giving as much slack to the rear as possible. Run the cables over the seat belt bolt to avoid pinching.
  • Reassemble the interior: Reinstall the carpet, trim, cubby door, and other interior components. Double-check that everything is secure and properly connected.

By following these steps, you can successfully remove the rear quarter panel and gain access to the fuel door for replacement. Remember to take your time, work carefully, and refer to online forums and resources for additional tips and guidance.

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Disconnecting the negative battery terminal

Safety Precautions

  • Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and skin from acid and electrical hazards.
  • Remove any metal jewellery to prevent accidental short circuits.
  • Locate the battery. Typically, it is under the hood on either side of the engine bay. If you cannot find it, check the owner's manual.

Disconnecting the Negative Terminal

  • Turn off the vehicle and ensure the ignition is in the OFF position.
  • Identify the terminals. The positive terminal is usually marked with a plus (+) sign and may have a red cover. The negative terminal will have a minus (-) sign and often has a black cover.
  • Use a wrench to loosen the nut or bolt on the negative terminal, turning counter-clockwise. Then, remove the cable.
  • Ensure that the disconnected cable is secured away from the battery to prevent accidental contact.

Reconnecting the Battery

It is important to note that reconnecting the battery also carries risks, including electrical shock, short circuits, and damage to the vehicle's electrical system if done incorrectly. When reconnecting, follow the disconnection steps in reverse:

  • Reconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal.
  • Tighten the terminals securely to ensure a good connection.

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Replacing the fuel door cable

Step 1: Get the Parts

Before you begin, make sure you have all the necessary parts for the job. You'll need a new retaining clip, which only costs a couple of bucks, and the total cost of the parts should be around $30 USD.

Step 2: Prepare the Car

Lift and start disassembling your car. You can use an emergency jack, but for safety, it's recommended to use a jack stand under the motor mount. Remove one wheel, engage the parking brake, chock the front wheels, and ensure you never go under the car. Remove most of the rear fender liner, leaving two or three fasteners at the back. This will give you enough room to access the backside of the cable at the door end.

Step 3: Remove Interior Components

Remove the side vent and pop off the drain flap housing. These can be simply popped out without unscrewing. Next, remove the driver's seat, remembering to unplug the weight sensor. Then, remove the door scuff liner, vertical molding, cubby door, and side panel inside the cubby.

Step 4: Locate and Access the Cable

Locate the cable and note that it goes a few inches before popping through the wall into the side vent area. Now, work on the front end of the cable. Remove the plastic cover around the lock by pulling and lifting the front edge, then wiggling out the back hook. Push back the carpet and create some slack if needed. Completely remove the rear bolt holding the cable housing and unscrew the front bolt a few turns. You don't need to remove this entirely, just enough to tilt the gold box vertically for easier access.

Step 5: Remove the Cable

First, remove the jacket end from the retaining slot, then unhook the cable itself. This can be done by bending it right at the point where it meets the cable end. Now, remove the rubber seal around the body penetration by pinching it with your fingertips.

Step 6: Remove the Rear End of the Cable

Instead of trying to turn the retaining ring/clip, which can be difficult, simply reach up and turn the cable. The thumb tabs are bigger and easier to access, even in the cramped compartment.

Step 7: Remove the Old Cable

Carefully extract the old cable, being careful not to yank or tug as it may get caught on the smaller electrical wiring. Tie a bit of string to the end of the cable to ensure you don't lose the path when pulling it through.

Step 8: Pull the Cable Through

Pull the cable through carefully, then untie the old string. Reach into the side vent and pull the cable end on the right, ensuring the other end stays in the cabin. Now, tie the string to the front end of the new cable.

Step 9: Reinstall the New Cable

Carefully pull the new cable back into the cabin. Start with the cable hanging out of the side vent, as it's easier to seat the new rubber grommet when the cable is perpendicular to the panel. Work the split-ring rubber seal carefully into place.

Step 10: Reattach the Front of the Cable

Reattach the front of the cable to the gold box and pop the cable end into the hook on the lever. This step may require some patience.

Step 11: Attach the Rear of the Cable

Attach the rear of the cable by inserting the retaining clip into the socket in the fuel door bay and turning it so that the cutout tucks behind the housing. Play around with the old clip to get a feel for the force needed to lock it onto the cable.

Step 12: Finalize the Installation

With the retaining ring and cable end in hand, feed the cable end up to behind the hole and put the retaining ring over the end. Ensure you have plenty of slack on the cable. Adjust the cable tension to be even, giving as much slack to the rear as possible. Run the cables over the seat belt bolt.

Step 13: Reassemble the Interior

Replace the carpet, trim, cubby door, and other interior components. Double-check the seatbelt bolt and reinstall the seats, being careful not to drop the posts into the wrong holes. Plug in the seat sensor.

Step 14: Reassemble the Exterior

Put the side vent back on, replace the fender liner, rear wheel, and any other exterior components you removed. Move your jack stands away from the car before lowering it.

Step 15: Adjust the Fuel Door Tension (Optional)

If you feel confident, you can adjust the tension on your gas door if needed. Do this slowly and in small increments. You can bend the spring/sheet or hold the rear edge and push the front edge straight in until it bottoms out, being mindful of the gas door cable pin.

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Adjusting the fuel door tension

First, it is important to understand the purpose of the fuel door tension spring. This spring is responsible for maintaining tension on the fuel filler door, ensuring it remains closed securely when not in use. Over time, the spring can become damaged or break, leading to a loose fuel door.

To adjust the tension, you will need to access the fuel door assembly, which is located at the rear of your Firebird. Begin by opening the fuel filler door and locating the tension spring. It is a small component, approximately 1.1 x 1.3 x 0.3 inches in dimension, and is connected to the fuel door hinge.

Once you have located the tension spring, you can proceed with the following steps:

  • Disconnect the tension spring: Using a suitable tool, carefully disconnect the tension spring from the hinge. It is important to be gentle during this process to avoid any damage to the surrounding components.
  • Inspect the spring: Visually inspect the spring for any signs of damage, corrosion, or wear. If the spring is damaged or weakened, it should be replaced with a new one.
  • Adjust the tension: If the spring appears to be in good condition, you can adjust the tension by carefully stretching or compressing the spring. This will require some force, but be careful not to over-stretch the spring as it may weaken or break.
  • Reattach the spring: Once you have achieved the desired tension, securely reattach the spring to the hinge. Ensure that it is properly aligned and seated correctly to prevent any issues.
  • Test the fuel door: Close the fuel filler door and test the tension by attempting to open it. It should now require more force to open and should close securely when released.

By following these steps, you can adjust the fuel door tension on your 1967-68 Firebird, ensuring that it functions smoothly and securely. It is important to work carefully and methodically throughout the process to avoid any damage to the fuel door assembly or surrounding components.

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