Regan Brown
Installing fuel injectors on a WRX can be a challenging but rewarding task. While it is not necessary to remove the manifold, it is important to be careful and methodical, especially when dealing with the fuel system. Before starting, it is recommended to run your tank nearly empty and depressurize the fuel system to avoid dealing with a fuel-submerged assembly and to prevent leaks and spraying. This article will guide you through the tools required and the steps to take for a successful fuel injector installation on a WRX.
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What You'll Learn
Tools needed for the job
To install fuel injectors in a WRX, you will need a variety of tools, including:
- A magnetic pickup tool. This is useful not only for retrieving dropped bolts but also for saving time in tight spaces.
- A range of ratchets and sockets: a 3/8 drive ratchet, a ¼ drive ratchet, a 10mm deep socket or 10 mm wrench, a 10mm ¼ socket, a 10mm 3/8 socket, a 12mm 3/8 socket, and a 12mm ¼ socket.
- Extensions: 3” extension 3/8 drive, 3” extension ¼ drive, 6” extension ¼ drive, and a wobbler 3/8 drive.
- A ¼ universal joint.
- A ratcheting 12mm wrench for the rear bolts.
- A ratcheting 10mm wrench.
- A ratcheting 12mm wrench.
- A 12mm flexible crowfoot.
- Pliers.
- An 8mm nut driver, 8mm socket, or a flathead screwdriver.
- Synthetic grease with PTFE or petroleum jelly, or Vaseline.
It is important to have the right tools for the job to ensure a successful and safe installation.
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Removing the manifold
Firstly, ensure you have the right tools for the job. You will need a range of sockets and ratchets, including a 3/8 drive ratchet and a 1/4 drive ratchet, as well as various extensions and universal joints. A magnetic pickup tool is also highly recommended, as it will save you time if you drop any bolts in tight spaces.
Before starting, run your tank nearly empty as you do not want to deal with a fuel assembly submerged in fuel. Then, depressurize the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse and starting the car. It will run for around 10 seconds before sputtering out.
Now, you can begin to remove components. Start by removing the battery, then the TMIC, using a 12mm socket with an extension and pliers. Next, remove the oil filler neck with a 10mm deep socket and cover the opening with a shop towel. You may also need to remove the washer fluid reservoir on the driver's side.
At this point, you should be ready to remove the manifold. However, it is important to note that removing the manifold is not a straightforward process and can be time-consuming, especially if this is your first time. It is also recommended that you pay close attention to how the components are removed, so you know how to reinstall them correctly.
Finally, when reinstalling the manifold and other components, be sure to use adequate lubrication on the O-rings to prevent damage.
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Removing the battery and TMIC
To remove the battery and the TMIC (Top-Mounted Intercooler) from your WRX, you will need the following tools:
- Magnetic pickup
- 3/8 drive ratchet
- 1/4 drive ratchet
- 10mm deep socket or 10mm wrench
- 10mm 1/4 socket
- 10mm 3/8 socket
- 12mm 3/8 socket
- 12mm 1/4 socket
- 3" extension 3/8 drive
- 3" extension 1/4 drive
- 6" extension 1/4 drive
- 6" extension 3/8 drive
- Wobbler 3/8 drive
- 1/4 drive universal joint
- 10mm wrench (ratcheting recommended)
- 12mm wrench (ratcheting recommended)
- 12mm flexible crowfoot
- Pliers
- 8mm nut driver or 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver
First, pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car to release the fuel pressure. Let the car idle until it sputters out. This should take around 10 seconds.
Now, you can begin removing the battery. Use the 10mm deep socket to remove the battery from the car.
Next, you will remove the TMIC. To do this, use the 12mm socket with an extension, 8mm nut driver, and pliers. There are three bolts to remove, which are 10mm. Cover the opening with a shop towel.
At this point, you may also want to remove the oil filler neck. This can be helpful for easing the removal and replacement of the bracket, also known as the "Bracket of Death." Use a 10mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the oil filler neck in place.
Remember to work carefully and methodically, especially if this is your first time performing this task. Take your time and refer to online forums and videos for additional guidance if needed.
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Installing the new injectors
Before putting the heat shields and air pump back, put the fuse for the pump back in and turn the ignition to position 3. Do not start the car. This is to ensure that when you pressurize the system, there are no issues. The heat shields are optional, but if you choose to reinstall them, make sure you do so carefully. The driver's side bracket is the more difficult of the two to reinstall, so pay close attention to how it is removed to make reinstallation easier. It is also important to leak test the injectors by priming the fuel pump before reinstalling the brackets.
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Reinstalling the Bracket of Death
If you have removed the Bracket of Death during the disassembly process, it is important to pay close attention to how it was taken out, as this will guide how you reinstall it. Before reinstalling the bracket, it is recommended to leak test the injectors by priming the fuel pump.
To reinstall the Bracket of Death, reverse the removal process. First, secure the coolant reservoir to the bracket using a 12mm bolt. If you choose not to reinstall the bracket, simply leave this step out.
Next, you will need to reinstall the breather hoses that run to the head. This step is also optional, but if you choose to do it, be sure to follow the correct procedure for your specific vehicle make and model.
Finally, you can proceed to reinstall the airbox or intake, completing the reinstallation of the Bracket of Death.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a magnetic pick-up, a 3/8 drive ratchet, a 1/4 drive ratchet, a 10mm deep socket or 10mm wrench, a 10mm 1/4 socket, a 10mm 3/8 socket, a 12mm 3/8 socket, a 12mm 1/4 socket, a 3" extension 3/8 drive, a 3" extension 1/4 drive, a 6" extension 1/4 drive, a 6" extension 3/8 drive, a 3/8 drive wobbler, a 3/8 drive 1/4 universal joint, a 10mm wrench (ratcheting recommended), a 12mm wrench (ratcheting recommended), a 12mm flexible crowfoot, pliers, an 8mm nut driver or 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
First, depressurize the fuel system. Pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car to let it idle and release fuel pressure. Remove the battery, the TMIC, the oil filler neck, and the intake box. Then, lift the fuel rail, push down on the injector to remove it from the rail, and pull the injector out. Pry out the bottom injector seat with a flathead screwdriver. Apply lubricant to the o-rings and insert the new injectors. Position the fuel rail, push it together, and bolt it down. Tighten the bolts and confirm you can easily spin the bolt. Reinstall the bracket, the breather hoses, the coolant reservoir, and the airbox or intake.
Before starting, run your tank nearly empty so you don't have to deal with fuel when you pull out the assembly. Be careful not to break any clips when removing the pump assembly. You don't need to remove the manifold. Be sure to leak test the injectors by priming the fuel pump before reinstalling the brackets.
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