Changing the fuel pump in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth is a relatively straightforward task. While it may sound daunting, it is a procedure that can be performed at the roadside if necessary. The process involves removing the fuel pump assembly, draining the fuel, and replacing the pump. The fuel-line fittings can be challenging to loosen, and it is important to take precautions when working with flammable liquids. Online forums and video tutorials provide detailed instructions and tips for this procedure, ensuring that car owners can confidently tackle fuel pump issues in their Mitsubishi 3000GT or Dodge Stealth.
What You'll Learn
Disconnect the electrical connection for the pump
Disconnecting the electrical connection for the pump is a crucial step in changing the fuel pump in a Mitsubishi GT-3000. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to do this:
Firstly, locate the electrical connection for the fuel pump. This can be found to the rear of the blue, two-way valve. It is connector F-16 in the electrical configuration and circuit diagrams. Once located, press down on the top tab and pull it forward to disconnect it.
Next, you will need to ensure the car is raised, making it easier to access the fuel pump and its components. Use ramps, a lift, or jack stands to raise the car. Once the car is raised, it is important to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from any debris or fluids that may come loose during the process.
Now, with the electrical connection disconnected, you can attempt to start the car. If the electrical connection has been successfully disconnected, the car should not start.
At this point, you can proceed to remove the blue, two-way valve by sliding it up and off its mounting post on the top of the fuel pump assembly. You may need to twist it slightly to detach it completely.
As a word of caution, the fuel line fittings can be challenging to loosen, so it is important to be patient and apply the appropriate amount of force without causing damage to the surrounding components.
By following these steps, you will have successfully disconnected the electrical connection for the fuel pump in your Mitsubishi GT-3000, allowing you to proceed with the fuel pump replacement process.
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Remove the high-pressure fuel line
To remove the high-pressure fuel line of a Mitsubishi 3000GT, you will need two wrenches: a 14-mm flare-nut wrench and a 19-mm open-end wrench. The 14-mm wrench will be attached to the fixed bolt on the metal pipe, while the 19-mm wrench will be used to loosen the nut on the hose.
Before you begin, soak the fitting with a strong penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes. This will help to loosen the connection.
Now, attach the wrenches to the fitting. The 14-mm flare-nut wrench goes on the rearward side of the fitting, and the 19-mm open-ended wrench goes on the forward-facing side. Keep in mind that it is the hose side of the fitting that will move, not the pump side. With the wrenches in position, squeeze them together with both hands. This should break the connection free.
If you are unable to break the connection, you may need to try a different technique. Try loosening the fitting at the other end of the hose in front of and above the gas tank. To do this, raise the car and loosen the fitting using the same wrench sizes as before. The 19-mm wrench goes on the hose nut, and the 14-mm wrench goes on the metal pipe bolt. The bolt rotates counter-clockwise, and the nut rotates clockwise when you are laying on your back, head towards the front of the car, looking up at the fitting.
Remember to wear safety goggles when working underneath the car, as there is a risk of fuel leakage.
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Remove the fuel pump assembly
To remove the fuel pump assembly, you must first reduce the fuel line pressure. Start by unplugging the electrical connection for the pump, located at the rear of the blue, two-way valve. Press down on the top tab and pull it forward. Now, attempt to start the car—it shouldn't turn on. Next, remove the blue, two-way valve by sliding it up and off its mounting post on the fuel pump assembly. Slide the clamp on the back hose off the valve, and then slide the hose off the valve (twisting can help).
Now, you can remove the high-pressure fuel line. This is located at the end of the metal pipe coming out of the assembly and looks like there are two nuts there (or a bolt and a nut). The "bolt" is fixed to the metal pipe and does not turn, while the "nut" is attached to the rubber hose. Attach a 14-mm flare-nut wrench (or an open-end wrench) to the fixed bolt on the metal pipe. Then, use a 19-mm open-end wrench to loosen the nut on the hose by pushing or pulling the wrench toward the outside (passenger side) of the car. Be careful not to move or bend the bolt and metal pipe.
Once the nut is loose, you may be able to completely remove it by twisting the rubber hose multiple times. However, it is typically easier to loosen the fitting at the other end of the hose, which is located in front of and above the gas tank. Loosen this fitting using the same wrench sizes, with the car raised if possible. Both pieces spin on the fitting at the front of the hose. The bolt rotates counterclockwise, and the nut rotates clockwise when you are laying on your back, head towards the front of the car, looking up at the fitting. It is not necessary to completely disconnect this fitting—simply loosen it. Remember to wear safety goggles when working underneath the car.
Finally, remove the six 8-mm nuts on the top of the assembly. The pump assembly can now be lifted out, but be sure to note the three rubbery protrusions along the edge of the assembly top, which are part of a rubber gasket that goes between the assembly top and the compartment floor. Use your fingers to ensure this gasket does not tear as you remove the assembly. You will need to rotate and tilt the assembly to get it out of the tank.
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Remove and replace the pump
Before removing the pump, ensure you have the right tools. You will need a few tools: a number 2 Phillips screwdriver, a flat-blade screwdriver, a 14-mm open-end or flare-nut wrench, a 19-mm open-end wrench, 8-mm and 7-mm sockets and a ratchet, and a thin-bladed pocket knife. A hand impact tool and hammer could also be useful.
First, drain the fuel out of the assembly. Let the fuel drain out of the top and bottom of the assembly. Then, clean any junk off the filter, being careful not to damage the screen. Take care not to bend the wires attaching the float and low-level sensor while handling the assembly.
Now, you can remove the filter. Remove the screw from the bottom bracket. You may need to use a hand impact tool to loosen it without stripping the head. Remove the bracket and the rubber grommet. Using a thin-bladed pocket knife or similar tool, gently pry off the washer that holds on the filter. Then, remove the filter.
Next, remove the pump. Pull the pump straight down. Only a rubber O-ring holds it in. There are no interlocking pieces. Remove the 7-mm nut and the wire from the positive terminal, and then remove the nut and the wire from the negative terminal.
Now, you can transfer parts to your replacement pump. With your finger on top of the white plastic piece on top of the pump, gently pry up with a flat-head screwdriver (or similar tool) in small increments around the piece so that it moves up in a "parallel" manner until it comes off. Take off the O-ring and the other white plastic piece. Note that one or more of these three pieces may have remained in the pickup tube; if so, carefully remove them. Put these pieces on your new pump by hand only. The top piece just snaps on.
Finally, install the new pump. Reattach the negative wire. Slide the pump into the pickup tube. Attach the positive wire. Put the (cleaned) filter on and its "washer". Put the rubber piece back on the base and the base plate. You can use the hand impact tool to tighten the screw.
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Re-install the pump assembly
To reinstall the pump assembly, first inspect the assembly to ensure all screws and nuts are tight and the filter and top gasket are clean. Carefully clean the top of the tank around the opening. Check the inside of the gas tank for any damage. Slide the assembly into the tank. Tighten the six 8-mm nuts in a pattern, similar to tightening wheel lug nuts.
Next, re-attach the high-pressure fuel line at the pump. Remember that the assembly-side bolt does not spin, and do not bend the metal tube. Now, tighten the other end of the hose in front of the tank. The tightening torque should be 25 ft-lb (35 Nm) near the pump end and 22 ft-lb (30 Nm) at the other end.
Re-attach the blue two-way valve to its post, and attach the hose and clamp. Plug the electrical connector back in.
Finally, start the car and check for leaks. If everything is okay, put the access cover back on, and you're done!
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Frequently asked questions
First, reduce the fuel line pressure by unplugging the electrical connection for the pump. Then, remove the blue, two-way valve and the high-pressure fuel line. Finally, remove the six 8-mm nuts on the top of the assembly and carefully lift it out.
You will need a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a flat-blade screwdriver, a 14-mm open-end or flare-nut wrench, a 19-mm open-end wrench, 8-mm and 7-mm sockets and a ratchet, and a thin-bladed pocket knife. A hand impact tool and hammer could also be useful.
Pull the pump straight down. Only a rubber O-ring holds it in. Remove the 7-mm nut and the wire from the positive terminal, followed by the nut and wire from the negative terminal.
Reattach the negative wire, slide the pump into the pickup tube, and attach the positive wire. Put the cleaned filter on and its washer, and then put the rubber piece back on the base and the base plate.
The first step is to make sure you have only a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Then, raise the car and fold down the rear seat backs. Remove the contents of the rear storage compartment, including the spare tire, storage bins, and carpet.