Replacing Fuel Pumps: Deutz 1011 Engine Guide

The Deutz 1011 is a series of 2-cylinder, 3-cylinder, and 4-cylinder diesel engines found in a wide range of equipment and machinery. Each injector and cylinder have their own dedicated camshaft-driven injector pump, which are controlled by a common control rod, also known as the fuel rack. This fuel rack is a long slotted linkage that moves back and forth, adjusting the fuel flow rate to each injector. If you're experiencing issues with your Deutz 1011 engine, such as difficulty starting or irregular throttle behaviour, it may be time to replace the fuel pump and control rod. This complex procedure requires various specialty tools and should only be performed by an experienced technician to avoid the risk of severe engine damage.

Injection pump control rod replacement

The Deutz 1011 is a series of 2, 3, and 4-cylinder diesel engines found in a wide range of equipment and machinery. Each injector has its own camshaft-driven injection pump, controlled by a common control rod or fuel rack. Damage to the fuel rack can cause the engine to not start, or only run at one throttle position.

Tools Required:

• Basic hand tools
• Deutz 1011 timing/alignment dowels
• Deutz 1011 crankshaft dolly (or a homemade equivalent)
• Torque multiplier
• Belt tension gauge

Step-by-Step Guide:

Note: This procedure should only be carried out by an experienced, qualified technician.

Test the Fuel Rack:

• Remove the fuel rack inspection bolt (10mm socket/wrench) to the right of the cylinder 2 injection pump.
• With the inspection bolt removed, use a small screwdriver to slide the fuel rack towards the flywheel, then release.
• If the rack does not spring back when released, it is not working properly.

Prepare the Engine:

• Remove any accessories necessary to access the engine.
• Drain the engine oil.
• Remove the lower timing belt cover by taking out the two 10mm bolts and the "safety star" (a tamper-proof security fastener).
• If applicable, remove the accessory drive pulley from the crankshaft, but do NOT remove the center crankshaft bolt.
• Remove the upper timing belt cover.

Locate the Camshaft Timing:

• Find the camshaft timing alignment hole to the left of the engine oil filter and remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket).
• Rotate the crankshaft central bolt (32mm) clockwise until the hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole in the engine block.
• Insert the Deutz camshaft alignment dowel and tighten.

Check the Crankshaft Alignment:

• Locate the crankshaft alignment hole on the opposite side of the engine and remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket).
• Insert and thread the crankshaft alignment dowel into place. If the dowel does not insert easily, the engine timing is off.

Remove Timing Components:

• With the camshaft and crankshaft dowels in place, proceed with the repairs.
• Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley (8mm Allen) and the timing belt.
• Remove the governor inspection cover (2 x 5mm Allen) located to the left and below the camshaft timing pulley.
• Remove the oil dipstick and the oil pump (external Torx bolts).

Remove the Camshaft and Crankshaft Pulleys:

• Remove the camshaft pulley by holding the 35mm outer nut with a wrench and loosening the center bolt (22mm socket). Do NOT apply pressure to the camshaft.
• Remove the crankshaft pulley using a breaker bar and 32mm socket. Be careful not to put any pressure on the crankshaft itself.

Remove Additional Components:

• Remove the alternator (if applicable).
• Remove the electric fuel shutoff solenoid from the front of the engine (two 10mm bolts).
• Carefully pry off the front cover, which is sealed with RTV silicon. Remove all bolts first (a combination of 13mm head bolts and external Torx bolts).

Remove the Injection Pumps:

• Remove the banjo fittings for the fuel supply lines and injector lines (17mm flare nut wrench).
• Take out the injection pump hold-down bolts (13mm) and carefully extract the injector pumps one at a time. Number each pump to ensure they are replaced in the correct cylinder.

Remove the Fuel Rack:

• Take out the 8mm Allen head plug below the fuel rack.
• Use a punch and small hammer to press out the fuel rack pin.
• Slide the fuel rack out of the engine block.

Install the New Fuel Rack:

• Install the new fuel rack and verify that it operates smoothly.
• Clean all remnants of silicon from the front cover and engine block mating surfaces.
• Apply a bead of oil-resistant RTV silicon to the sealing surface of the front engine cover, then reinstall.
• Torque all bolts to 21 N-m in a criss-cross fashion.

Reinstall Components:

• Refill the crankcase with engine oil.
• Reinstall the governor inspection cover, oil pump, and fuel solenoid/shutoff.
• Install the crankshaft timing pulley and hand-tighten the center bolt.
• Use the Deutz "dolly" or a similar device to prevent the crankshaft from rotating while torquing the bolt.
• Torque the crankshaft bolt to 130 N-m initially, then rotate an additional 210 degrees.

Reinstall the Timing Belt:

• Install the cam pulley loose so that it spins freely.
• Install the belt tension pulley hand-tight, ensuring the indented Allen head is in the 2 to 3 o'clock position.
• Install the timing belt, checking for even stick-out with a tape measure.
• Use an Allen wrench to apply belt tension to 530 Newtons (120 lbs).
• Torque the tensioner pulley to 33 ft-lbs (8mm Allen).

Final Steps:

• Torque the camshaft pulley to 22 ft-lbs, then an additional 210 degrees.
• Remove the camshaft and crankshaft alignment dowels and reinstall the bolts with sealing washers.
• Rotate the engine clockwise at least 4 rotations and check the belt tension.
• Reinstall the injector pumps, fuel lines, fuel solenoid, accessory pulley, and alternator.
• When installing the injector pumps, use a metal rod (e.g., a 1/8" welding rod) to keep the control linkage at the bottom of the injector pump in place.
• Start the engine and test for functionality. It may take multiple cranking sessions to prime the fuel system.

Removing the fuel rack inspection bolt

To remove the fuel rack inspection bolt, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench. The bolt is located just to the right of the cylinder 2 injection pump (note that cylinder 1 on a Deutz diesel is the one nearest the crankshaft output, not the front of the engine).

Once you have located the bolt, remove it. You should then be able to see the fuel rack, which has a small slot cut into it that is accessible through the inspection hole. Use a small screwdriver or pick to slide the fuel rack towards the engine's flywheel, then release it. If the rack moves very little, is tight, or does not spring back quickly when released, it is not functioning correctly. You should be getting roughly 1/2" of smooth movement and a sharp spring back when actuating it manually.

If the fuel rack is not functioning properly, you will need to replace it. To do this, follow the below steps:

• Remove any accessories necessary to access the engine.
• Completely drain the engine oil.
• Remove the lower timing belt cover. It is held in place by two 10mm bolts and one "safety star", which is a tamper-proof security fastener requiring a special 5-point star bit to remove.
• If applicable, remove the accessory drive pulley from the crankshaft. Do NOT remove the center crankshaft bolt, as the engine will lose time and require a professional to re-time it. Only remove the outer bolts holding the accessory drive pulley in place.
• Remove the upper timing belt cover (various bolts requiring a 10mm socket).
• Locate the camshaft timing alignment hole to the left of the engine oil filter, then remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket).
• Find the top dead center of the front-most cylinder (cylinder #2 in a two-cylinder, cylinder #3 in a three-cylinder, cylinder #4 in a four-cylinder). This is done by rotating the crankshaft central bolt (32 mm) clockwise until the hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole through the engine block.
• Insert the Deutz camshaft alignment dowel through the camshaft alignment hole, hand-threading it as much as possible before tightening it down. If the alignment dowel will not thread into the engine block, the front-most cylinder is not at TDC. You may need to rock the crankshaft back and forth slightly until the dowel slides in completely.
• Locate the crankshaft alignment hole on the opposite side of the engine to the camshaft alignment hole, then remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket).
• Carefully insert and thread the crankshaft alignment dowel into place. If the dowel will not insert, the engine's timing is off, and you have run into a bigger problem. If the engine is in time and the camshaft alignment dowel has been installed correctly, the crankshaft dowel should insert and thread into place with ease.
• With both the camshaft and crankshaft alignment dowels in place, the engine will stay in time while you make the necessary repairs. If the cam and crankshaft dowels are NOT installed, do NOT continue.
• Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley (8mm Allen) and the timing belt.
• Remove the governor inspection cover (2 x 5mm Allen) located to the left and just below the camshaft timing pulley. Be careful not to damage the gasket so that it can be reused.
• Remove the oil dipstick and the oil pump (bottom left, series of external torx bolts).
• Remove the camshaft pulley by holding the 35mm outer nut with a wrench and loosening the center bolt with a 22mm socket. Do NOT allow any pressure to be applied to the camshaft, as you risk damaging the camshaft alignment dowel and the camshaft itself.
• Remove the crankshaft pulley. Deutz manufactures a series of special tools for this job, but you can also make your own mechanism to keep the crankshaft in place while the crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued down.
• Remove the alternator (if applicable).
• Remove the electric fuel shutoff solenoid from the front of the engine (two bolts with 10mm heads).
• The front cover is held in place by a series of long bolts with 13mm heads and several smaller external torx bolts near the bottom. Remove all these bolts and carefully pry the front cover off. The cover will be sealed with RTV silicon, so use a razor knife and small screwdriver to loosen the sealant. Do not force the cover off; verify that all fasteners have been removed before prying.
• Remove the banjo fittings for the fuel supply lines and each injector line (17mm flare nut wrench), then remove the injection pump hold-down bolts (13mm) and carefully extract the injector pumps one at a time. Number each pump as they will need to be replaced in the same cylinder they were removed. Do not mix and match. Remember, the cylinder closest to the flywheel is cylinder 1 on a Deutz diesel.
• Remove the 8mm Allen head plug just below the fuel rack, then use a punch and small hammer to press out the fuel rack pin. The fuel rack will now slide out of the engine block (note that it may be tight and difficult to remove if bent).
• Install the new fuel rack and verify that it functions properly. It should operate smoothly and spring back when released.
• Clean all remnants of silicon from the front cover and engine block where the front cover mounts.
• Run a small, roughly 1/4" bead of oil-resistant RTV silicon along the entire sealing surface of the front engine cover, then reinstall it. Snug all bolts, allow silicon to cure (typically 24 hours, follow manufacturer's directions), then torque all bolts to 21 N-m in a criss-cross fashion.
• Refill the crankcase with engine oil.
• Reinstall the governor inspection cover, oil pump, and fuel solenoid/shutoff.

Locating the camshaft timing alignment hole

To locate the camshaft timing alignment hole, follow these steps:

First, make sure you are only viewing the engine from the front, so you are looking at the crankshaft pulley. Next, to find the timing pin for the camshaft, look at the left side of the engine towards the rear, just behind the oil filter. In this area, you will see a 10mm plug threaded into the block. This plug typically has a female Allen head. Remove this Allen head plug to gain access to the hole in the camshaft.

Now, rotate the camshaft until the pin slides into the hole in the cam. There is only one location for the camshaft pin. The camshaft hole is offset, so the pin can only go in one way. It is impossible to install the pin 180 degrees out. Be sure to screw the pin all the way until the threads bottom out.

Now, to work on the crankshaft pin, still viewing the engine from the front, look at the right side of the engine towards the front. The crankshaft plug will use the same 10mm Allen head plug. This plug will be approximately on the same plane as the crankshaft.

Now, you will need to rotate the crankshaft until the front cylinder piston is at top dead center or TDC. Be careful here, as you are referring only to the front cylinder, not cylinder #1. Cylinder #1 is at the back of the engine. For timing purposes, we are only concerned with the front cylinder. In order to properly find TDC, you may have to remove the front fuel injector and watch for the piston coming up.

Once you are close to TDC, install the crankshaft timing pin. Unlike the camshaft, the crankshaft does not have a hole. Deutz decided to machine a flat spot into the crankshaft, so the timing pin will slide over this flat spot. Once you've installed the crank pin, you will notice that you can still rotate the crankshaft back and forth about 15 degrees. Don't worry about this.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing pin and the crankshaft bottom out. Now your crankshaft is in position.

Finally, slide the belt on and set the belt tension.

Removing the crankshaft pulley

Firstly, it is important to note that this task requires several tools that are not commonly found in every garage. In addition to basic hand tools, you will need the following specialty items:

• Deutz 1011 timing/alignment dowels
• A Deutz 1011 crankshaft dolly or a similar homemade device to hold the crankshaft in place
• A torque multiplier to torque the crankshaft pulley properly
• A belt tension gauge to set the tension of the timing belt

Now, follow these steps:

• Remove any accessories necessary to access the engine, such as the hood, hydraulic oil cooler, and air filter assembly.
• Completely drain the engine oil.
• Remove the lower timing belt cover. It is typically held in place by two 10mm bolts and one "safety star" (a tamper-proof security fastener requiring a special 5-point star bit to remove).
• If applicable, remove the accessory drive pulley from the crankshaft. Do not remove the center crankshaft bolt, as this will cause the engine to lose time and require professional re-timing. Only remove the outer bolts holding the accessory drive pulley in place.
• Remove the upper timing belt cover, which is secured by various 10mm bolts.
• Locate the camshaft timing alignment hole to the left of the engine oil filter and remove the bolt and sealing washer using a 10mm socket.
• Find the top dead center of the front-most cylinder by rotating the crankshaft central bolt clockwise until the hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole through the engine block.
• Insert the Deutz camshaft alignment dowel through the camshaft alignment hole and tighten it down snugly. You may need to rock the crankshaft slightly to get the dowel to slide in completely.
• Locate the crankshaft alignment hole on the opposite side of the engine and remove the bolt and sealing washer with a 10mm socket.
• Carefully insert and thread the crankshaft alignment dowel into place. If the dowel does not insert easily, the engine's timing is off, and you may have bigger problems.
• With both the camshaft and crankshaft alignment dowels in place, you can proceed with the necessary repairs. Do not continue if these dowels are not installed correctly.
• Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley with an 8mm Allen wrench, and then remove the timing belt.
• Remove the governor inspection cover, located to the left and just below the camshaft timing pulley, using a 5mm Allen wrench. Be careful not to damage the gasket for reuse.
• Remove the oil dipstick and the oil pump, which is located at the bottom left of the engine and secured with external Torx bolts.
• Remove the camshaft pulley by holding the 35mm outer nut with a wrench while loosening the center bolt with a 22mm socket. Do not allow any pressure on the camshaft, as this may damage the camshaft alignment dowel and the camshaft itself.
• Now, you can remove the crankshaft pulley. Deutz manufactures special tools for this job, but you can also create your own mechanism, as described earlier. Be sure to follow the instructions provided by Deutz or refer to the procedures outlined in the previous steps for creating a safe and effective homemade mechanism.
• This nut is usually extremely tight, so be sure to take precautions to avoid putting pressure on the crankshaft itself, as this can damage the timing alignment dowel.
• Install your homemade lever or device to the crankshaft, using the accessory drive bolts, and position it against the frame.
• Remove the crankshaft alignment dowel as a safety measure to prevent any potential damage while torquing the crankshaft pulley.
• Loosen the crankshaft bolt without allowing the crankshaft to rotate, and then reinstall the crankshaft alignment dowel.

By following these steps, you will be able to successfully remove the crankshaft pulley of a Deutz 1011 engine. Remember to refer to the specialty tools and procedures mentioned at the beginning to ensure a safe and effective removal process.

Installing the shim and injection pump

When installing the shim and injection pump on a Deutz 1011 engine, there are several steps to follow. Firstly, ensure that the fuel rack is moving back and forth freely by pressing on its end with the old pumps installed. If it is moving freely, slightly compress the rack so that the hole in the rack aligns with the pin hole. Screw in the pin to lock the rack in place.

Next, with the roller tappet installed in the new injection pump hole, rotate the crankshaft until the tappet is resting at its lowest point. You can gauge the depth by placing your fingertip into the hole on top of the tappet as you rotate the crankshaft. The tappet should be sitting at the lowest, flattest point on the camshaft, with the lobe on the camshaft pointing downwards.

Once you've found the lowest resting position on the camshaft, it's time to install the shim, followed by the injection pump. Tighten the injection pump to the block. After torquing it down, remove the finger-loop pin from the injection pump. This long pin is pre-installed and its removal will engage the pump into the rack, synchronizing it with the remaining injection pumps.

Now, unscrew the pin to unlock the fuel rack and allow it to move freely again. Test the rack to ensure it is moving smoothly and not sticking. Finally, re-plug the timing hole with the original bolt that was removed earlier. Repeat this process for each pump in sequence.

Frequently asked questions