If you're experiencing issues with your Holden Commodore's fuel pump, it may be time for a replacement. The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the fuel injectors, ensuring the engine runs smoothly. While fuel pumps are built to last a long time, they can fail due to various reasons, such as contaminants in the fuel or overheating from frequent low fuel level driving. Before the fuel pump fails, it may exhibit symptoms like whining noises, sudden losses of engine power, or surges in engine power. Replacing the fuel pump can be a complex task, and it's recommended to get assistance from a qualified mechanic, especially for a vehicle like the VE Commodore, where accessing the fuel pump may require dropping the fuel tank.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Reason for replacement | Fuel pump failure |
Symptoms of failure | Engine not starting, stalling, sputtering, vibrating at high speeds, loss of power while accelerating, whining noise coming from fuel tank, poor fuel efficiency |
Causes of failure | Contaminants in the fuel (e.g. moisture, rust, dirt, debris), overheating due to frequent driving with low fuel levels, clogged pump or damage to moving parts |
Replacement process | Remove and replace fuel pump, check fuel pump relay and fuses, check condition of fuel tank, check fuel filter, inspect fuel pressure, conduct a road test |
Replacement cost | $100-$200 for the pump, up to $400 for labour |
What You'll Learn
Removing the ute floor
To remove the ute floor of a Holden Commodore Ute VS Series III, you will need to remove the screws around the edge of the ute floor. There are usually several Phillips-head screws that need to be removed. The ute floor is also sealed to the floor of the car with seam sealer, so you will need to use a lever to lift it up. Be careful not to damage the floor or the underbody of the car.
Once the ute floor is removed, you will have access to the fuel tank. From behind the driver's seat, there is a screwed-on hatch that needs to be removed to access the fuel pipes leading to the tank. There will also be a set of wires – one set for the pump power and another for the fuel gauge sender. Disconnect all of these, being careful of any fuel that may spill out.
Now, from the back of the tray, you should have enough room to undo the ring of screws to remove the pump/gauge sender assembly. Be careful not to damage the gauge sender float, as this may cause the fuel gauge to malfunction.
When fitting the new pump, make sure to check that it works and that there are no leaks before refitting the access hatch and the ute floor.
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Accessing the fuel tank
To access the fuel tank of a Holden Commodore Ute VS Series III, you will need to remove the ute floor from behind the cabin. This involves removing the numerous Phillips-head screws around the edge and levering it up, as it is stuck to the floor with seam sealer. This will give you access to the tank.
From behind the driver's seat, there is a screwed-on hatch that needs to be removed to access the fuel pipes. There should be two sets of wires: one for the pump power and another for the fuel gauge sender. Disconnect these wires, being careful of any spilling fuel.
Now, from the back of the tray, you should have enough room to undo the ring of screws to remove the pump/gauge sender assembly. Be careful not to damage the gauge sender float, or your fuel gauge may not work properly.
For the VE Commodore, the fuel pump can be accessed through two circular access panels under the seat. However, this is only possible for the early models (2006/2007), as the later models require dropping the tank.
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Disconnecting wires and fuel pipes
Disconnecting the wires and fuel pipes is a crucial step in changing the fuel pump on a VE Commodore. Here is a detailed guide on how to safely and effectively complete this task:
First, remove the ute floor from behind the cabin. This will involve unscrewing multiple Phillips screws around the edge. Be cautious as the floor is likely sealed to the body of the car with seam sealer, so prying it up with a lever may be necessary. Once the ute floor is removed, you will have access to the fuel tank.
Next, locate the hatch behind the driver's seat. This may be covered by carpet or rubber, so make sure to remove any coverings to access the hatch. Unscrew and open the hatch to access the fuel pipes and wires connected to the fuel pump.
Now, carefully disconnect the wires and fuel pipes. There should be two sets of wires: one for the pump power and another for the fuel gauge sender. Be cautious as fuel may spill during this process. It is important to have rags or a container ready to catch any spilling fuel.
After disconnecting the wires and fuel pipes, you should now be able to remove the fuel pump assembly. This assembly includes the fuel pump and the fuel gauge sender. Be careful not to damage the fuel gauge sender float, as this may cause issues with your fuel gauge.
Finally, before installing the new fuel pump, make sure to replace everything in the correct orientation. If anything is put back incorrectly, it may not work properly. Once the new fuel pump is installed, check that it runs and starts the motor without any leaks before refitting the access hatch and ute floor.
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Replacing the fuel pump and gauge sender assembly
The fuel pump and gauge sender assembly can be accessed by removing the ute floor from behind the cabin. This involves removing the screws around the edge and levering it up, as it is stuck to the floor with seam sealer. This provides access to the fuel tank.
From behind the driver's seat, there is a screwed-on hatch that provides access to the fuel pipes, wires for the pump power, and another set of wires for the fuel gauge sender. Disconnect all of these, being careful of any spilling fuel.
Now, from the back of the tray, undo a ring of screws to remove the pump/gauge sender assembly. Take care not to damage the gauge sender float, as this may affect the fuel gauge.
When replacing the new pump, check that it works, runs, and starts the motor, and that there are no leaks, before refitting the access hatch and ute floor.
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Checking the new pump for leaks
To check the new fuel pump for leaks, you'll need to perform a leak dye test for the most accurate results. Here are the steps you can follow:
High-Pressure System Fuel Leak Test:
- Keep people away: Keep those who are not directly involved in the repair away from the vehicle, especially when the engine is on.
- Safety first: If a fuel leak is detected, stop the engine immediately. Do not smoke or allow any open flames near the vehicle. Wear protective clothing, such as a face shield, insulated gloves, and an apron. Ensure the engine area is well-ventilated.
- Steam clean: Start by steam cleaning the entire fuel system to remove any dirt or residue.
- Warm up the engine: Start the engine and let it reach its operating temperature, usually around 140°F (60°C).
- Perform the RPBO test: Refer to your vehicle's manual or seek advice from a professional if you're unsure.
- Check for leaks: Inspect the high-pressure pump, fuel lines, and fittings for any signs of leakage. If you find loose fittings, tighten them and recheck for leaks. Replace the lines if leaks persist.
- Inspect the fuel rail connections: Check the injector fuel line rail connections for external leaks or loose lines. Tighten any loose connections and recheck. Replace the lines if necessary.
- Check the fuel rail pressure sensor: Inspect the fuel rail pressure sensor for leakage or looseness. Tighten the sensor if needed, then recheck. Replace the sensor if leaks continue.
- Inspect the PLV connection: Check the PLV connection for leakage or looseness. Tighten the connection, turn the engine off, and recheck. Replace the PLV connection if leaks persist.
- Examine the high-pressure fuel pump: Inspect the high-pressure fuel pump for external leaks. Replace the pump if leaks are found.
- Isolating the engine: Turn the ignition off and install a fuel test bottle kit. Fill one container with ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel and add fuel dye. Connect the hoses to the fitting on the cap to isolate the engine from the chassis fuel system.
- Priming the fuel system: Prime the fuel system using a hand primer until there is no air coming out of the return fuel line.
- Cover the cam gears: Remove the rocker cover and install a tool to cover the cam gears at the rear of the cam frame.
- Using a black light: Allow a few minutes for the dye to reach the injectors. Start the engine and run it at 900 rpm. Use a black light to inspect the injectors and fuel lines for signs of leakage. Replace any leaking injectors or fuel lines as needed.
- Final inspection: If no leaks are found, use the black light to inspect the entire high-pressure system for leaks. Repair as necessary.
Remember to refer to your VE Commodore's manual for specific instructions and safety precautions. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these steps, it's best to consult a qualified mechanic.
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Frequently asked questions
If your car won't start, or if you hear a whining noise coming from your car's gas tank, your fuel pump may be broken. Other signs include poor fuel efficiency, engine sputtering and vibrating at high speeds, and loss of power while accelerating.
Fuel pumps are built to last a long time—up to 200,000 km or more. Mechanics recommend replacing the fuel pump only if it breaks. However, after 150,000 km, it's a good idea to replace the pump if you're replacing a major part of your fuel system nearby.
The cost of a new fuel pump ranges from $100 to $200, depending on your vehicle's make and model. The labour cost of replacing the pump may be up to $400.