Replacing Fuel Pumps: Easy Access, No Tank Drop

Replacing a fuel pump without dropping the tank is possible, but it's not an easy task. The process involves jacking up the rear of the vehicle, removing the wheels, and taking off the bumper. One must also be cautious when dealing with fuel lines and electrical connections. Some vehicles have access panels inside the car, under the back seat, which provide access to the fuel pump without needing to drop the tank. This method is not recommended by professionals, who suggest finding a mechanic or using a lift to safely remove the tank.

How to replace fuel pump without dropping tank

Siphoning gas to another vehicle

Siphoning gas from one vehicle to another is a handy skill to have in emergency situations, such as when you run out of gas in a remote area. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

What You'll Need:

• A gas can or another closed container to siphon the gas into. It should be clean, uncontaminated, and placed on the ground near the gas tank opening of the vehicle.
• Clear plastic tubing that is 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. You will need two lengths of tubing: one long enough to reach deep into the gas tank, and a shorter one that will reach just inside the tank.
• A rag or towel.

Step-by-Step Guide:

• Feed both tubes into the gas tank of the vehicle you are siphoning from. The longer tube should be fully submerged in the gasoline, while the shorter tube should be pushed in just a few inches so that they sit side by side.
• Use the rag to create a seal around the tubes by packing it tightly around them. This will help create high air pressure in the tank, which is necessary for the siphoning process.
• Blow air into the shorter tube to increase the air pressure inside the tank. You can use your lungs or a mechanical air pump for this step, but be careful not to inhale any fumes.
• Monitor the flow of gas. Once the gas starts flowing through the longer tube into your gas can, gravity will do the rest of the work.
• When you want to stop siphoning, cover the long tube with your thumb, raise it above the level of gas in the tank, and remove your thumb. Any remaining gas in the tube should flow back into the tank.
• Remove the tubes and close the gas tank.

Note: This method may not work on gas tanks with special anti-siphon barriers. Always exercise caution when handling gasoline and take the necessary safety precautions to avoid inhaling fumes or spilling gasoline.

Removing the filler neck

The filler neck is the solid piece of formed tubular steel that joins the fuel filler inlet and the rubber fuel fill hose on the gas tank. The fuel filler neck is connected to the body inlet cutaway with steel screws and is fitted inside a rubber hose attached to the vehicle’s fuel tank.

To remove the filler neck, first locate it by visually inspecting it for any exterior damage. Check that all the mounting screws are inside the fuel door area and verify that the rubber hose and clamp are visible and undamaged. If your vehicle has a cover protecting the fuel hose from debris, you will need to remove it to perform the inspection.

Next, determine if the fuel filler neck is leaking vapours. If it is, the engine management system should have recorded this and a sensor will cause the engine light to come on. Some common engine light codes related to fuel vapours near the fuel filler neck are P0093, P0094, P0442, and P0455.

Now, park your vehicle on a flat, hard surface and put it into park (for automatics) or first gear (for manuals). Place wheel chocks around the front tires and engage the parking brake to lock the rear tires. Install a nine-volt battery saver into your cigarette lighter to keep your computer live and setting current.

Open the vehicle’s hood and disconnect your battery by taking the ground cable off of the battery’s negative post, disabling the power to the fuel pump or sending unit.

Using a floor jack, lift under the vehicle at its specified jacking points until the wheels are off the ground. Place jack stands under the jacking point locations and lower the vehicle onto them. For most modern cars, the jacking points will be on the pinch weld just under the doors along the bottom of the car.

Open the fuel door and remove the mounting screws or bolts attached to the cutaway. Remove the fuel filler cap cable from the fuel neck and place it aside.

Locate the fuel tank and place a transmission jack or similar jack under it. Loosen and remove the straps to the fuel tank and lower it a little. Reach up on top of the fuel tank and feel for a harness attached to the tank. This is the harness for the fuel pump or sending unit on older vehicles.

Lower the fuel tank further to reach the vent hose attached to it. Remove the clamp and small vent hose to allow more clearance. Vehicles from 1996 and newer will have a return fuel charcoal canister attached to the vent hose to collect fuel vapours for emissions.

Remove the clamp on the rubber hose attaching the fuel filler neck and twist the fuel filler neck, pulling it out of the rubber hose. Guide the fuel filler neck out of the area and remove it from the vehicle. If you have to remove the fuel tank for clearance, be sure to transfer any fuel out of the tank first. It is best to have the vehicle at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less when removing the fuel filler neck.

Inspect the rubber hose for any cracks. If there are any, the rubber hose must be replaced.

Installing the new filler neck

Clean the harness and the connector to the fuel pump or sending unit on the fuel tank using electrical cleaner and a lint-free cloth to remove any moisture and debris. While the fuel tank is lowered, it is recommended to remove and replace the one-way breather valve on the tank. If the breather valve on the fuel tank is non-serviceable, then you will need to use a pump to check its condition. If the valve has failed, you will need to replace the fuel tank.

The breather valve on the fuel tank allows fuel vapours to release into the canister but not allow any water or debris into the tank.

Wipe out the rubber hose on the fuel tank with a lint-free cloth. Place a new clamp onto the rubber hose. Take the new fuel filler neck and twist it into the rubber hose. Put the clamp in place and tighten up the slack. Allow the fuel filler neck to twist but not allow the clamp to move.

Raise the fuel tank up to the vent hose and attach the vent hose using a new clamp. Tighten the clamp until the hose will not twist and turn 1/8 turn. Make sure that you do not use the old clamps as they will not hold tight and cause a vapour leak.

Raise the fuel tank all the way up to align the fuel filler neck with the cutaway and align the fuel filler neck mounting holes. Lower the fuel tank and tighten the clamp. Keep the fuel filler neck from moving.

Raise the fuel tank up to the harness and connect the fuel pump or sending unit harness to the fuel tank connector. Attach the fuel tank straps and tighten them until they stop. Torque the mounting nuts to the specified torque value. If you do not know the torque value, you can tighten the nuts 1/8 turn more with blue locktite.

Align the fuel filler neck with the cutaway in the fuel door area and install the mounting screws or bolts into the neck, securing it tightly. Attach the cable of the fuel filler cap to the neck and screw on the fuel filler cap until it locks in place.

Removing the bumper

• Park your vehicle on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. This will ensure the vehicle remains stationary during the removal process.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using an appropriate socket or wrench. This will prevent any accidental electrical shorts during the process.
• Locate the bumper bolts or fasteners. These are typically located along the edge of the bumper, where it attaches to the vehicle's frame or body.
• Using the correct size socket or wrench, loosen and remove the bumper bolts or fasteners. Be sure to place them in a safe location for reinstallation.
• Carefully pull the bumper away from the vehicle. It may be necessary to gently pry or pop the bumper off, especially if it is clipped or snapped into place.
• With the bumper removed, you will have access to the fuel pump and other components behind it. Place the bumper in a safe location, away from the work area, to avoid any accidental damage.

It is important to work slowly and carefully during this process to avoid damaging the bumper or any surrounding components. Once the bumper is removed, you can proceed with the fuel pump replacement, following the safety guidelines and technical specifications outlined in the previous response.

Removing the bed

Step 1: Gather Tools and Materials

• Engine hoist
• Chains or straps
• Engine leveler (optional)
• Ratchet, extension, and sockets
• Allen wrenches or allen sockets
• 4x4x8ft wood cut in half
• Bath towels
• Flat-tip screwdriver or body pin remover
• Anti-seize thread saver
• Pallet forks (if using a tractor)
• Ratchet straps
• Nylon lifting strap
• Moving blankets
• Forklift or 4-6 people (for heavier flatbeds)

Step 2: Prepare the Truck

• Unbolt all bed bolts.
• Open the fuel door and unbolt the filler neck from the bed.
• Unplug electrical harnesses at the back of the bed.
• Remove the tailgate.

Step 3: Position the Hoist

• Bring the engine hoist to the front of the bed and attach a bath towel to the hoist arm to prevent damage to the bed rail.
• Hook up the chains or straps to the bed tie-downs, usually located inside the bed rails.
• Attach the chains or straps to the engine leveler or hoist hook, adjusting the lengths to avoid the hoist arm hitting the bed rail when lifted.

Step 4: Lift the Bed

• Slip bath towels between the rear bumper and the bed to create a pivot point and protect the bumper.
• Double-check that everything underneath is disconnected.
• Lift the front of the bed, using the hoist, and slide the 4x4s between the frame and the front of the bed for support.

Alternative Method: Using a Tractor

• If you have access to a tractor, you can use it to lift the bed. Ensure the tractor has a loader attachment.
• Use 4x4s under the bed rails as pick points and towels on the front corners to avoid contact with the cab.
• You can also use pallet forks and ratchet straps to lift and secure the bed.

Note: Always work with a spotter when operating a tractor or hoist to ensure safe lifting and manoeuvring of the bed.

Disconnecting the fuel lines and harness

Before beginning, ensure you have the necessary tools, including a fuel line disconnect tool and a fuel-safe container for catching any spilled fuel. It is also important to wear protective gear, such as gloves and eye protection, to safeguard against any potential hazards.

First, locate the fuel pump access hatch, which is typically on the top of the gas tank. Once found, use a step bit to carefully drill a series of holes in the sheet metal above the access hatch. Start with smaller holes and gradually increase the size to create a large enough opening. This process will help you gain access to the fuel pump assembly.

Next, use a sturdy chisel to widen the access holes further, creating a larger opening to work with. This step ensures you have enough space to reach the fuel pump assembly and perform the necessary tasks.

Now, carefully insert a leverage bar into the access point and gently pry the fuel pump assembly out of its mounting. This step will require some force, but be cautious to avoid damaging any surrounding components. Once the assembly is loose, proceed to disconnect the electrical connections and fuel lines. Place the old fuel pump assembly in the fuel-safe container to catch any residual fuel.

At this stage, you have successfully disconnected the fuel lines and harness from the old fuel pump assembly. You can now install the new fuel pump assembly, ensuring all connections are secure and properly aligned.

Remember to consult your vehicle's service manual for specific instructions and safety guidelines throughout the process.

Frequently asked questions