Replacing The Fuel Pickup In Your Classic 1968 F100

If you're looking to replace the fuel pickup on your 1968 F100, you've come to the right place. This guide will take you through the process step by step, ensuring that you can get your beloved vehicle back on the road in no time.

Replacing the fuel pump on a 1968 Ford F100 360/5.9

This guide will take you through the process of replacing the fuel pump on a 1968 Ford F100 360/5.9. Please note that you should only attempt this if you have a good level of automotive repair knowledge and the necessary tools. If you are unsure about any part of the process, it is best to consult a qualified mechanic.

Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle

Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Make sure the engine is switched off and allow it to cool down if it has been running recently. Place wheel chocks around the wheels for safety.

Step 2: Access the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump on a 1968 Ford F100 360/5.9 is located in the fuel tank, so you will need to gain access to the tank in order to replace the pump. Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for safely removing the fuel tank from the vehicle. You will also need to disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors attached to the pump.

Step 3: Remove the Old Fuel Pump

Once you have access to the fuel pump, you can begin the process of removing it. Start by carefully detaching any remaining fuel lines and electrical connectors that are attached to the pump. Make sure to note their positions for reattachment to the new pump. Next, remove the mounting bolts or brackets that are holding the pump in place and lift it out of the fuel tank.

Step 4: Install the New Fuel Pump

Take the new fuel pump and position it in the fuel tank, securing it with the appropriate mounting hardware. Reattach the fuel lines and electrical connectors, ensuring that all connections are secure and tight to prevent leaks.

Step 5: Reinstall the Fuel Tank

Carefully lower the fuel tank back into position and secure it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Reconnect any disconnected fuel lines and electrical connectors.

Step 6: Testing and Final Checks

Before starting the engine, turn the ignition to the 'on' position and check for any signs of fuel leaks around the pump and fuel lines. If no leaks are detected, start the engine and allow it to run for a few minutes. Check the fuel lines again and also listen for any unusual noises that may indicate a problem with the fuel pump.

Linking the fuel line to the carburettor

To link the fuel line to the carburettor of your 1968 F100, you will need to ensure that fuel is getting to the pump. Check if fuel is getting to the pump by observing if it is coming from the tank through the line.

If fuel is not getting to the carburettor, disconnect the line at the carburettor and put some fuel into the line. Reconnect and retry.

If the above step does not work, you may be sucking air at the rubber line going into the cab under the driver's side. This is where the two hard lines join together before going into the cab hard line.

You can also try cranking the engine for a bit longer as it takes time for the pump to prime and fill the carburettor.

Additionally, you can try adding a small amount of fuel to the carburettor and then retry starting the engine.

Positioning the fuel tank

Firstly, decide on the desired location for the fuel tank. Some options include relocating it under the bed, installing a custom tank, or opting for a factory dual tank. Each option has its advantages and complexities, so choose the one that best suits your needs and skills.

If you choose to relocate the tank under the bed, be mindful of the spigot position to ensure smooth fuel flow and prevent spillage. You may also consider purchasing a new tank and modifying the filler neck to suit your preferred location. Alternatively, you can explore the option of a custom-made tank from a specialised shop, ensuring the spigot is positioned correctly.

Another option is to utilise the saddle tank from a factory dual-tank truck or opt for a truck with the cab tank delete option. This approach can be more straightforward, especially if you can find a suitable used tank.

When positioning the fuel tank, it's essential to consider the fuel lines and fittings. You may need to bend your own fuel lines or opt for a mix of stainless hard lines and braided hoses to accommodate the new configuration. Additionally, pay attention to the AN fittings and ensure you have the necessary sizes and types for a secure connection.

Finally, when installing the fuel tank, don't forget to use antiseize lubricant on all your AN fittings and stainless hardware. This will ensure a secure and long-lasting connection.

Remember to carefully plan and measure before making any permanent modifications. Each option has its advantages and complexities, so feel free to seek further advice and guidance from online forums and specialists.

Using a braided hose to connect the frame to the tank

When connecting the frame to the tank using a braided hose, there are a few things to keep in mind. Braided hoses are usually made of stainless steel or nylon and can be a good option for fuel lines due to their durability and flexibility. They can also add a nice visual touch to your engine bay.

• Plan the Route: Before you start, carefully plan the route of the braided hose. Consider the proximity to the exhaust and other components, and determine if you will need additional support or if you can run the hose along a frame rail.
• Choose the Right Hose: Ensure that the braided hose you select is rated for fuel applications. For added peace of mind, consider using an E85-rated hose, which can handle ethanol-blended fuels and will eliminate any worries about fuel eating through the hose or fittings.
• Hose Size and Fittings: Determine the appropriate hose size for your application. In the case of the 1968 F100, a -8AN or -6AN line is commonly used for fuel lines. Choose fittings that match the hose size and ensure they are also fuel-rated.
• Flexibility and Vibration: One advantage of braided hose is its flexibility. When routing the hose, consider areas that may experience vibration or movement, such as between the frame and the engine. Using a section of hose in these areas can help reduce the risk of damage or leaks.
• Support and Separators: Depending on the length of the hose run, you may need to provide additional support at several points. This can be done by routing the hose along a frame rail or using separators to keep the hose from rubbing against other components.
• Fuel Pump and Filters: Consider the location of your fuel pump and any fuel filters you plan to install. It is generally recommended to use a section of hose between the tank and the fuel pump for flexibility and easy removal in the future. You may also want to install fuel filters before and after the pump to protect it from debris and to catch any metal shavings.
• Return Line and Venting: If your fuel system includes a return line, ensure that it is routed appropriately and connected to the correct port on the fuel tank. Additionally, if your fuel tank is vented, you may need to use a vented gas cap to prevent vacuum buildup in the system.
• Lubrication and Fitting Tightening: When assembling the hose and fittings, use an antiseize lubricant on all AN fittings and stainless hardware. This will make assembly easier and help prevent issues down the line. Be careful not to over-tighten fittings, as this can lead to stripping or damage.
• Custom Fabrication: Depending on your specific setup, you may need to fabricate or bend the hose to fit your application. This may require specialized tools, such as a tube bender, and careful measurement to ensure a proper fit.
• Safety and Testing: Always exercise caution when working on fuel systems to avoid spills and accidents. Once your braided hose is installed, carefully inspect all connections and test the system for leaks before starting the engine.

By following these instructions and tips, you can confidently use a braided hose to connect the frame to the tank in your 1968 F100, ensuring a reliable and visually appealing fuel system.

Using a straight rod with banjo fittings for the throttle linkage

When replacing the fuel pickup on a 1968 F100, you may need to replace the throttle linkage. A straight rod with banjo fittings can be used for this. This setup can be preferable to the stock "trapeze" linkage, which can be prone to wallowing out and introducing slop.

To make this linkage, you will need a straight rod, two banjo fittings, and two nuts. The rod should be made from 1/4" diameter solid rod, with a length of around 9 and 1/2". The banjo fittings should have 1/4-24 thread. You will also need a few small pieces of tubing or bushings to fill the gap between the banjo fittings and the carburetor linkage.

First, measure the distance between the accelerator linkage and the carburetor linkage. Cut the rod to the appropriate length, allowing for the length of the banjo fittings. Thread the ends of the rod to fit the banjo fittings. Drill out the top hole of the accelerator linkage to accommodate a screw. Attach the rod to the carburetor linkage using the banjo fittings and nuts. Fill any gaps between the banjo fittings and the carburetor linkage with the small pieces of tubing or bushings.

This setup should provide a direct, responsive connection between the accelerator pedal and the carburetor, without the slop associated with the stock trapeze linkage.

Frequently asked questions