Replacing A 2006 Yukon Fuel Pump: Step-By-Step Guide

how to replace 2006 yukon fuel pump

Replacing the fuel pump in a 2006 GMC Yukon is a moderately complicated job that is best performed by a professional mechanic. The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and can be accessed through an access panel in the passenger compartment or by removing the tank from the vehicle. The average cost for a GMC Yukon fuel pump replacement is between $979 and $1,186, with labour costs estimated between $236 and $298, and parts priced between $743 and $888.

Characteristics Values
Average Cost Between $979 and $1,186
Labor Costs Between $236 and $298
Parts Costs Between $743 and $888
Fuel Pump Location Inside the fuel tank
Fuel Pump Function Deliver gas from the fuel tank to the fuel injectors
Fuel Pump Type Electric motor
Fuel Filter Location Inside the fuel tank or externally in the fuel flow line
Fuel Pump Warning Signs Engine "chokes", noises, backfires, sputtering engine, hesitation at start or take-off, engine overheating, "Check Engine" light

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Disconnecting the battery

First, locate the negative terminal on the battery. Using an 8-millimeter wrench, disconnect the negative terminal. Slide it off and move it away from the battery. If there is a cover on the terminal, remove it. This is usually held in place by an 8-millimeter bolt.

Next, you will need to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Take off the cover from the fuel line, and use a rag and a straight-blade screwdriver to push in the fuel line. This will release any pressure, and you can then put the cap back on.

Now, you can proceed to disconnect the battery cable. Make sure the connection is tight and secure.

It is important to note that working with the fuel system can be dangerous, and there is a risk of fire. Always take the necessary precautions and have a fire extinguisher nearby. If you are not confident or experienced in auto repair, it is recommended to leave this job to a professional mechanic.

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Removing the fuel tank

To remove the fuel tank on a 2006 GMC Yukon, start by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery using an 8-millimetre wrench. Remove the cover on the fuel line and use a rag and a straight-blade screwdriver to relieve the pressure.

Next, take off the fuel line at the back of the tank, and disconnect the connector to the vent canister using your fingers, pliers, or a pick. Remove the filler neck hose using an 8-millimetre socket or straight-blade screwdriver.

Now, lower the fuel tank using a transmission jack with a special adapter for fuel tanks. Take out the bolts holding the straps in place using a 15-millimetre socket or wrench, and slide the straps down and out.

Disconnect the lines on the front of the tank, including the e-EVAP vapour line and the fuel pressure line. Wrap a rag around the fuel pressure line to prevent fuel from spraying everywhere when disconnecting.

Finally, lower the tank all the way down and disconnect the electrical connectors. Be sure to blow off any dirt and debris from the top of the tank before removing it completely.

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Disconnecting the fuel lines

First, ensure you have the necessary tools, including a flat blade screwdriver, a transmission jack, and a 15-millimeter socket or wrench. It is also important to have as little fuel in the tank as possible, so you may need to siphon some fuel out.

Next, locate the fuel lines at the back of the tank. You will see the e-EVAP vapor line and the fuel pressure line. To disconnect the e-EVAP vapor line, simply push on the two tabs to release the connector. For the fuel pressure line, you will need to remove the clip holding it in place. Wrap a rag around the connector before disconnecting it to avoid any fuel spray.

Now, lower the back of the fuel tank. Once the filler neck has cleared the rear differential, you can back the tank up a little more. Disconnect the electrical connector by sliding the lock and pulling the connector out.

At this point, you can lower the tank further and access the fuel pump. There are several connectors and hoses to remove. First, disconnect the fuel lines by pushing on the lock tabs and sliding them off. Be careful, as there may still be some fuel in the lines. You can use a bucket to catch any fuel that drains out.

Next, remove the lock ring. This can be done with a special tool or a brass punch and hammer. Be careful not to damage the tank. With the lock ring removed, you can now slide out the fuel pump.

Finally, clean up any residual fuel with a rag and prepare the new fuel pump for installation. This process involves disconnecting and reconnecting multiple lines and connectors, so it is important to be cautious and methodical throughout.

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Replacing the fuel pump

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

First, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery using an 8-millimetre wrench. This is important for safety, to reduce the chance of a fire.

Step 2: Remove the fuel tank cover

Next, remove the cover on the fuel tank. If there is a bolt, use an 8-millimetre bolt to take it off.

Step 3: Release the pressure in the fuel system

Use a rag and a straight-blade screwdriver to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Place the cap back on when done.

Step 4: Remove the fuel line

Take off the fuel line at the back of the tank. You can do this by squeezing the connector and twisting it.

Step 5: Disconnect the vent canister

Disconnect the vent canister by squeezing the connector with your fingers or using pliers to twist it off.

Step 6: Remove the filler neck hose

Loosen the filler neck hose using an 8-millimetre socket or straight-blade screwdriver.

Step 7: Lower the fuel tank

Use a transmission jack to support and lower the fuel tank.

Step 8: Remove the fuel tank straps

Take out the bolts and slide the straps down on both sides of the tank. You may need to use a 15-millimetre wrench if the J-nut is broken.

Step 9: Disconnect the lines on the front of the tank

Disconnect the e-EVAP vapour line and the fuel pressure line. Be careful, as there may be fuel in these lines.

Step 10: Lower the tank further

Once the lines are disconnected, lower the tank further so that you can access the fuel pump.

Step 11: Disconnect the electrical connectors

Before removing the fuel pump, disconnect all electrical connectors.

Step 12: Remove the old fuel pump

Take off the connectors and lines attached to the fuel pump. You may need to use a special tool or a brass punch and hammer to remove the lock ring. Carefully slide out the old fuel pump.

Step 13: Install the new fuel pump

Clean the area and install the new fuel pump, making sure to line up the level sensor and locking it into place. Transfer any necessary parts from the old pump to the new one.

Step 14: Reconnect the hoses and lines

Reconnect all the hoses and lines, ensuring that the seals are lined up and locked into place.

Step 15: Reposition the fuel tank

Slide the tank back into position, making sure to line up the filler hose with the rear differential.

Step 16: Reconnect the fuel pressure sensor and vapour line

Reconnect the fuel pressure sensor and vapour line, ensuring they are locked into place.

Step 17: Reattach the fuel tank straps

Reattach the straps and tighten the bolts. Torque the bolts to 30 foot-pounds.

Step 18: Reconnect the negative battery cable

Finally, reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the "on" position a few times to prime the fuel pump.

Please note that this is a complex job and it is recommended to have it performed by a professional mechanic or dealership service department.

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Reattaching the fuel tank

Now, reconnect the lines, locking them into place and tightening the worm clamp. Don't over-tighten, as it's plastic. Then, connect the negative battery cable and ensure it is tight. Before starting the vehicle, turn the key to the 'on' position and wait three seconds before turning it off. Repeat this process two to three times to prime the fuel. Now, you should be able to start the vehicle.

Frequently asked questions

Signs that your fuel pump is failing include a car that won't start, a car that stalls after starting, a slowly starving fuel flow causing the check engine light to come on, or a whirring sound coming from your fuel tank.

The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. A mechanic will need to get to the failed pump through the top of the fuel tank via an access panel in the passenger compartment or by removing the tank from the vehicle.

You will likely need to replace the fuel pump. Even if you have the know-how and materials to fix it, it will probably only be a temporary solution.

Symptoms of a bad fuel pump include an engine that "chokes" or struggles to maintain speed, noises, backfires and a sputtering engine, hesitation at start or take-off, and an overheating fuel pump causing the engine to overheat. Any of these issues, along with a "Check Engine" light, indicate a bad fuel pump.

The average cost for a GMC Yukon fuel pump replacement is between $979 and $1,186. Labor costs are estimated between $236 and $298, while parts are priced between $743 and $888.

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