Changing Fuel Filter On '95 Ram 2500 Diesel: Step-By-Step Guide

Changing the fuel filter on a 1995 Ram 2500 diesel truck is a fairly simple task that can be completed in about an hour. There are two fuel filters located on the left side of the engine: one engine-mounted and the other frame-mounted. The part numbers for these filters are DF99569 (frame-mounted) and DF99579 (engine-mounted). To change the filters, you will need some sockets or wrenches to unscrew the filter housing. It is recommended to lubricate the O-ring cap seal before tightening it to prevent it from getting squished. There are also videos available online that can provide a step-by-step guide on how to change the fuel filters.

Locating the fuel filter

The engine-mounted fuel filter is located on the left side of the engine. You can find it by following the fuel lines from the rail.

The frame-mounted filter is located under the vehicle, below the driver-side seating area. It is mounted on the frame in the fuel line.

Both filters are important to maintain the performance and health of your engine, so it is recommended to replace them regularly and check for any leaks or issues.

It is also good practice to put down some form of drip tray or container to catch any diesel that may spill during the process of changing the filters. This will help to avoid any spills and make the process cleaner and safer.

Tools required for the job

To change the fuel filter on a 1995 Ram 2500 diesel, you will need the following tools:

• A 28mm or 29mm socket.
• A ratchet with a swivel attachment.
• A 10-inch or longer extension.
• A strap wrench.
• A Lisle 34900 water sensor wrench.
• A pipe wrench.
• A filter wrench.
• A torque wrench.
• A 3/8-inch inner diameter clear tube or hose.
• A catch can or bucket to collect the drained fuel.
• A small pan to catch any spills or drips.
• A new fuel filter (make sure to get a genuine Mopar filter to avoid counterfeits).
• Lubricant for the O-ring seal and threads on the engine-mounted fuel filter.

Some additional tools that can be helpful include:

• A billet fuel filter cap from Geno's Garage to replace the plastic cap.
• A u-joint.
• A wrench set.
• A screwdriver set.
• A ladder to access the engine compartment.
• Gloves and safety goggles to protect your hands and eyes from fuel spills.

Removing the old filter

First, loosen the old gasket and carefully remove the filter cap. You may need to use a lot of force to break the seal, but be careful not to snap the plastic cap. Once the cap is off, slowly remove the old filter, being mindful not to spill any remaining fuel. You can use a small bucket to catch any drips.

If you are struggling to reach the filter cap, you can remove an electrical plug above it to make more room. You can also access the filter from above by removing the intake ducting, but this will make it harder to catch any spills.

If you are replacing the plastic filter cap, be sure to buy a genuine Mopar or Fleetguard replacement, as cheaper alternatives may not work properly.

Draining the old filter

To drain the old filter, you will need to place a bucket or catch pan underneath the filter to collect the fuel. For the front filter, you can extend the tube down below the axle to avoid splashing. You can also use a small bucket for the rear filter, which fits right above the drive shaft.

You will need to use a ratchet, a 28mm or 29mm socket, and long extensions (at least 12 inches) to reach the filter cap and break it loose. You may also need a swivel to get the correct angle. Be careful not to strip the plastic cap or snap the thin plastic drain valve.

It is recommended to replace the plastic cap with a billet cap to prevent it from cracking. You can also replace the factory hose with a longer piece of tubing to make it easier to drain the filter.

Be sure to clean up any spilled fuel, as it can be dangerous if it comes into contact with hot engine components.

Installing the new filter

To install the new filter, first, lube the O-ring cap seal and be careful that it doesn't get squished out when you tighten the lid down. Then, for the rear filter, simply tighten it with a ratchet, much like an oil filter, around three-quarters of a turn past initial gasket contact.

For the front filter, you will need a 28mm or 29mm socket, a ratchet with a swivel attachment, and a 10-inch extension. Make sure the old gasket comes off, and be sure that the new filter is seated correctly when you put it back on. You may also need a long extension, around 12 inches, and possibly a U-joint to give access to swing a ratchet. There is also a large electrical plug above the filter cap that you can undo to make more room.

You can also replace the plastic cap with a billet one from Geno's Garage to avoid the risk of it snapping.

Frequently asked questions