Ameer Randolph
Many vehicles have a fuel tank selector valve that allows the driver to switch between multiple fuel tanks. However, some people choose to bypass this valve, especially if they only use one tank. One way to do this is to connect the feed and return lines from the engine to the front tank using short fuel hoses and hose clamps. This method requires cutting the connectors, which can make it difficult to reinstall the selector valve later. Another option is to cut and join specific wires in the valve's wiring harness, but this should be done with caution as it involves electrical work. Some people also choose to remove the electric tank selector valve entirely and install modern solenoids or other valves. While bypassing the fuel tank selector valve can be done, it is important to carefully consider the advantages and disadvantages of doing so and to follow the appropriate procedures for your specific vehicle.
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What You'll Learn
Using two short fuel hoses and a few hose clamps
Bypassing the fuel tank selector valve can be done using two short fuel hoses and a few hose clamps. This method is a simple and cost-effective solution, but it is important to note that you will need to cut all the connectors, which can make it difficult to reinstall the selector valve in the future.
First, locate the hose coming from your front tank that leads to the valve. The valve ports will have directional arrows indicating which hose is coming from and going to the engine. You will need to bypass the valve on both the supply ("to") and the return ("from") lines. Cut the lines a few inches away from the switch, so you can splice them back together later if needed.
Next, splice in a section of hose in each line that is long enough to connect the lines in place of the valve. Use two short fuel hoses and secure them with hose clamps. Be careful not to tighten the clamps too much, as this can crush the old lines.
By following these steps, you can bypass the fuel tank selector valve using two short fuel hoses and a few hose clamps. This will allow you to continue using your vehicle, but keep in mind that reinstalling the selector valve may be challenging.
It is important to note that this method may vary depending on the specific make and model of your vehicle, and it is always recommended to consult a professional mechanic or a qualified technician for guidance before attempting any repairs or modifications.
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Cutting wires and joining them together
To bypass a fuel tank selector valve, you will need to cut and join wires. This process can vary depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but here is a general guide on how to do it:
First, locate the fuel tank selector valve. This is usually found near the fuel tank, often on the frame rail on the driver's side, just behind the cab. Once you have located the valve, you will need to identify the wires that need to be cut and joined. The number and colour of wires can vary, but as an example, for a Ford F-150, there should be five wires – two on one side for the tank selector valve operation, and three on the other side for the fuel gauge and the two tank sending units.
Now, cut the wires you have identified from the plug or switch connector. Be careful not to damage any other wires or components. Once the wires are cut, twist or join them together securely. For instance, for a Ford F-150, you would bridge the sending unit wire for the tank you are running from (usually the rear tank).
Additionally, you may need to cut and splice fuel hoses to bypass the valve completely. Ensure that you cut the lines a few inches away from the switch so that you can splice them back together later if needed. You may also need to use hose clamps to secure the hoses.
It is important to note that bypassing the fuel tank selector valve may affect the functionality of your fuel gauge and other components. Always refer to your vehicle's specific instructions and diagrams for the most accurate information.
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Sumping both tanks and collecting at a 1/2 T fitting
Sumping a stock tank can be done in a variety of ways. One method involves welding a Comp Engineering sump to a stock tank by notching the sump rails or attacking the tank. It is important to place the sump in the correct position, typically just behind the centre front to back, to avoid running out of gas prematurely. Drilling a few holes or cutting an "I" shape and folding the sump lips inward can help manage fuel flow during launching, turning, and braking.
Another approach is to install brass bushings by drilling holes in the rear bottom of the gas tank and screwing in the bushings. After fitting, the tank is filled with water, tinned, and then the bushings are soldered back in. This method is cost-effective and effective.
If you are connecting two or more fuel tanks together, you will need the tanks, piping to connect them, and possibly additional fittings. Connecting tanks can increase the total stored volume and allow for independent draining and drawing from individual tanks. Top-connected tanks can be configured so that water can be drawn from all tanks collectively by linking their outlet taps to a single outlet valve. This setup increases overall capacity and eliminates the need for large volume containers.
Bottom-connected tanks, on the other hand, do not require bulkheads or overflow port kits (except on the last tank) and draw water from all tanks simultaneously when tapped, maintaining a steady volume across all tanks.
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Disconnecting the FSV connector and using a jumper wire
Bypassing the FSV can be done by disconnecting the FSV connector and using a jumper wire. This method is a non-destructive option that involves less work and leaves you with the option to recommission both tanks in the future.
To begin, locate the FSV connector. This is usually found near the fuel selector valve on the frame of the vehicle. The connector will have multiple wires of different colours that need to be identified. The specific wires that need to be worked on are the dark blue/yellow wire (DB/Y) and the yellow/white wire (Y/WH).
Once you have located these wires, disconnect the FSV connector. This can be done by carefully pulling or unscrewing the connector, ensuring that you do not damage the wires or their connections. With the connector disconnected, you can now focus on the two wires mentioned. Take a jumper wire, which is a simple electrical wire with connectors or ends that can attach to the terminals of the DB/Y and Y/WH wires. Connect one end of the jumper wire to the terminal of the DB/Y wire and the other end to the terminal of the Y/WH wire. Ensure that the connections are secure and that there is no exposed wiring, as this could lead to short circuits or other electrical issues.
By connecting these two wires with the jumper wire, you are creating a direct link between them, bypassing the fuel selector valve. This will allow the fuel gauge to operate as if there is only one tank in the system, and you will be able to read the fuel level without having to select between tanks. It is important to note that this method assumes that the fuel tanks are connected in such a way that they share a common fuel level, and that there are no other issues with the fuel system that may impact the accuracy of the fuel gauge.
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Replacing the tank selector valve
Firstly, it is important to source a suitable replacement valve. In some cases, you may be able to find an exact match from the manufacturer or a third-party supplier. However, if your model is outdated or no longer in production, finding an exact match may be challenging. In such cases, you may need to opt for a universal replacement valve or consider modifying the fuel lines and wiring to accommodate a different type of valve.
Once you have the replacement valve, carefully study the instructions provided with it. Pay close attention to the wiring diagram and fuel line connections. If possible, take reference photos or make notes on the original setup before making any changes. This will help ensure that you can reverse the process if needed and avoid confusion in the future.
Next, proceed with disconnecting the old valve. This may involve cutting fuel lines and wires, so exercise caution and have the necessary tools and safety equipment ready. Drain the fuel tank if necessary to prevent spills. Once the old valve is removed, compare it with the new one, taking note of any differences in connector types, hose barb orientations, and wire colours.
Now, carefully install the new valve, following the instructions provided. If modifications are required, such as reversing hose connections or splicing wires, do so carefully and securely. Ensure that all connections are tight and secure to prevent leaks. Refer to your notes or photos to double-check that everything is connected correctly.
Finally, test the new valve to ensure it is functioning properly. Pay attention to your fuel gauge and observe if the tank selection switch is working as intended. If you encounter any issues, double-check your connections and refer to the troubleshooting section of the instructions provided with the new valve.
Replacing a tank selector valve can be a complex task, and it is always recommended to seek professional assistance if you are unsure about any part of the process. Additionally, keep in mind that bypassing the tank selector valve may not be advisable in certain situations, as it can lead to complications with fuel gauge readings and other issues.
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Frequently asked questions
You can connect the feed and return to/from the engine to the feed and return to/from the front tank. This will require two short fuel hoses and a few hose clamps. You will have to cut all the connectors, so putting the selector valve back later would be difficult.
Some fuel tank selector issues could cause the following symptoms: not switching tanks, switching tanks but the fuel gauge reading the incorrect tank, air intrusion/rough running, no fuel gauge readings, or the selector valve getting stuck.
A non-destructive option, which will leave you with less work if you recommission both tanks, would be to disconnect the FSV connector and put a jumper wire between the terminals for the DB/Y and Y/WH wires on the connector.
