Katerina Swanson
Converting an aluminum fuel tank to an intank pump can be a tricky process, especially for classic cars that don't have support for retrofitting an in-tank pump. Issues with fuel pressure and power loss can arise, and external pumps can be noisy and inconvenient. However, there are several methods and kits available to help with the conversion process. For example, Tanks Inc. offers a PA-Series EFI Gas Tank Conversion Module that can retrofit an internal fuel pump into an original gas tank. Aeromotive's Phantom 340 fuel system is another option that can fit almost any tank and control fuel slosh. Additionally, some manufacturers offer brand-new bolt-in EFI fuel tanks with in-tank fuel pumps that can be installed in popular vintage steel cars.
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What You'll Learn
Removing the fuel tank
Removing an aluminium fuel tank from a vehicle or boat is often a necessary first step before cleaning or repairing it. The process of removing the tank may vary depending on the specific make and model of the vehicle or boat, so it is important to refer to the manual for instructions on how to properly remove the tank without damaging other components.
In some cases, it may be possible to clean or repair the fuel tank without removing it. For example, if the tank is accessible through an inspection hatch or fuel sender hole, it may be possible to clean it using a garden hose, metal chain, or chemical cleaners. However, removing the tank can make it easier to perform more thorough cleaning or repair work.
If the fuel tank is located in a boat, it may be necessary to cut out the aluminium deck to access the tank. This was the case for one boat owner who had to cut out their aluminium deck to remove and repair their fuel tank. They then created a removable deck plate for future access.
In some cases, it may be more cost-effective to replace the fuel tank rather than repair it, especially if the tank has multiple leaks or is badly damaged. Additionally, the work involved in removing and reinstalling a fuel tank can be significant, and the tank may only have a couple of years of service left even after repairs.
Before removing the fuel tank, it is important to ensure that the tank is empty and that any fuel or chemicals are properly disposed of. This will help ensure a safer removal process and reduce the risk of spills or accidents.
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Cutting a hole in the tank
Cutting a hole in a fuel tank is a risky procedure and should be done with caution. It is important to note that cutting into a fuel tank can compromise what is otherwise a sealed system. Before cutting a hole, ensure that you have tried other methods to address any issues with the tank. For example, if the problem is trash in the fuel tank, consider pumping out the tank to remove debris or using an inspection camera to identify the cause of the obstruction.
If cutting a hole is absolutely necessary, it is crucial to take safety precautions to minimise the risk of ignition. Some sources recommend removing the tank from the vehicle or boat before cutting. This helps to ensure that the work is done in a well-ventilated area, reducing the risk of inhaling fumes. Additionally, removing the tank allows for better access and control during the cutting process.
Before cutting, the tank should be drained and cleaned thoroughly. This includes removing any remaining fuel, debris, or water, as these elements can increase the risk of ignition or affect the cutting process. After draining, some experts suggest filling the tank with water or carbon dioxide to further reduce the risk of ignition during cutting.
When it comes to the cutting tools, it is advised to avoid using power tools that can create sparks, such as electric cutoff grinders or cutting wheels. Instead, opt for manual tools like tin snips, air nibblers, electric shears, or hacksaws. These tools provide more control and minimise the risk of sparks.
During the cutting process, it is important to work slowly and carefully. Keep the blades of your tools lubricated and cool to prevent work hardening of the metal. Additionally, consider using a piece of thin metal to cover the surrounding area, protecting the plastic tank, lines, and wires from accidental damage.
Once the hole is cut, it is essential to seal it properly. Some people have used sheet metal or aluminium deck plates to cover the hole, securing them with aluminium tape or silicone rubber. Ensure that the cover fits snugly and securely to maintain the integrity of the fuel tank.
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Fitting a new pump
Firstly, you will need to siphon off most of the fuel. If you have the new external pump already, you can run two wires to your battery terminals, connecting positive to positive and earth to negative. Secure a length of tubing to the pump and insert it into the tank.
If you are fitting a new in-tank pump, you will need to jack up the car, drain the fuel, remove the exhaust heat shield, move the handbrake cables, and remove the bolts, filler pipe hose, pipes, and cables. Pull the tank out enough to remove the fuel pump.
For a Citroen Picasso tank, there are four bolts, two on the centre bracket and one at each end. Remove the exhaust heat shield and pull the handbrake cables out of their holders, then remove the wiring and pipe clips and filler hose. Place a drainage container under the bottom hose coupling. Remove all four bolts and ease the tank towards the filler end, taking care not to kink any pipes. Once lowered, the wiring connector and two fuel pipes can be removed. Then, unscrew the plastic collar that holds the fuel pump in place.
If you are fitting a Phantom 340 fuel system, cut a hole in your tank, measure the depth, cut the pump hanger bracket and foam baffle, insert the baffle, install the retainer ring and gasket, and bolt your pump and hanger down.
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Wiring and plumbing
Wiring
When dealing with electrical wiring for fuel pumps, safety should be a top priority. Always disconnect the battery before starting any work on the wiring system. The wiring process will vary depending on the specific fuel pump setup and vehicle, but here are some general guidelines:
- Ensure you have a clear understanding of the electrical system and the wiring diagram for your vehicle.
- Identify the power source for the fuel pump. It is usually recommended to connect directly to the battery terminals, ensuring a consistent power supply.
- Use appropriate gauge wiring for the fuel pump, as specified by the manufacturer or a qualified technician.
- Route the wiring safely and securely, ensuring it is protected from potential damage or interference.
- Make sure to use proper connectors and soldering techniques to establish reliable electrical connections.
- Test the wiring connections for continuity to ensure there are no breaks or shorts in the circuit.
Plumbing
The plumbing process involves modifying the fuel system to accommodate the intank pump:
- Drain the fuel tank completely before beginning any plumbing work.
- Cut through the main fuel pipe and fuel pump wires to disconnect the existing fuel lines.
- Measure the depth of your tank and choose an appropriate intank pump, such as the Aeromotive Phantom 340, which fits tanks from 6 to 11 inches deep.
- Install the new intank pump by following the manufacturer's instructions, which may include cutting a hole in the tank, inserting a baffle or basket, and bolting the pump in place.
- Secure the fuel lines to the new pump, ensuring they are properly connected and sealed to prevent leaks.
- Consider installing a fuel pressure regulator and a return line to maintain stable fuel pressure and improve the system's performance.
- Reattach the fuel tank and ensure all connections are secure and leak-free.
- Refill the fuel tank and carefully inspect for any signs of leaks before starting the vehicle.
It is important to consult vehicle-specific instructions or seek guidance from a qualified technician when performing these conversions to ensure safety and compliance with any legal requirements.
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Testing
Pressure Testing
Pressure testing is essential to verify that the system can withstand operational demands without leaks. Here are the steps for pressure testing:
- Pour in just enough fuel to pressurize the system.
- Cycle the system several times to check for leaks and to set the pressure on the regulator.
- Allow the system to remain pressurized for several minutes during inspection, as small leaks may take some time to appear.
Road Testing
Once the initial pressure testing is complete and any necessary adjustments have been made, it's time to take the vehicle for a road test. This will allow you to assess the performance and reliability of the new fuel pump system under various driving conditions:
- Pay attention to the vehicle's performance during acceleration, hard braking, cornering, and low fuel levels.
- Listen for any unusual noises, such as a loud gravelly rumbling sound, which could indicate fuel pump cavitation or vapor lock.
- Monitor the fuel pressure gauge, if available, to ensure that it accurately reflects the fuel level and engine performance.
- Observe the overall drivability and compare it to the performance before the conversion. Notice any improvements or issues that may have arisen.
Post-Test Inspection
After the road test, it is crucial to perform a thorough inspection of the fuel pump system:
- Check for any signs of leaks around the pump, hoses, and connections.
- Inspect the fuel filter to ensure it is clean and free of debris. Clogged filters can lead to reduced performance and potential damage to the pump.
- Re-examine the wiring connections to ensure they are secure and correctly insulated.
- Take note of any unusual odors or fuel odors that may indicate a leak or improper ventilation.
Troubleshooting and Fine-Tuning
Based on the results of the testing and inspection, you may need to make adjustments or address any issues that were identified:
- If leaks are detected, re-examine the sealing and connections, tightening any loose components and replacing seals or gaskets if necessary.
- In the event of fuel pump cavitation or vapor lock, consider installing a fuel pump with an internal bypass channel, such as the Walbro high-performance pumps, to improve hot fuel handling and reduce the occurrence of these issues.
- Fine-tune the pressure regulator and fuel delivery line to ensure optimal fuel pressure and flow during various driving conditions.
- Consult with automotive experts or specialized forums if you encounter unusual or persistent problems.
Remember, safety should always be the top priority. Do not skip any testing or inspection steps, and ensure that all components are securely installed and functioning correctly before considering the conversion complete.
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Frequently asked questions
Converting to intank pumps can help to control fuel slosh, keeping the fuel pump submerged in fuel even at low fuel levels and during aggressive driving. It can also eliminate common issues with external fuel pumps such as vapor lock and cavitation.
The steps will depend on the specific vehicle and setup, but generally, you will need to remove the existing fuel tank, cut a hole in the tank, measure the depth, cut the pump hanger bracket and foam baffle, insert the baffle, install the retainer ring and gasket, and bolt the pump and hanger down.
Some common issues with converting to intank pumps include the need to modify the entire tank, the complexity of installation, and the potential for leaks. It is also important to ensure that the fuel level does not drop too low, as this can cause a loss of fuel pressure and power.
