The fuel pump in a 1996 Chevrolet Impala is located inside the fuel tank. It can be accessed by removing the tank from the vehicle or through an access panel in the passenger compartment. However, cutting a hole in the floor of the car to access the fuel pump is not recommended as it can create an entry point for rust and water damage. While it is possible to change the fuel pump from the trunk, it is a complicated job that requires raising the rear of the vehicle, disconnecting fuel lines, and removing the fuel tank.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Fuel pump location | Inside the fuel tank |
Fuel pump replacement | Possible |
Fuel pump removal | Possible through the trunk |
What You'll Learn
The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank
First, raise the rear of the vehicle. Chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling forward. Loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck and vent line connection. Remove the tank strap mount bolts and the cross strap nut, and push the tank strap out of the way. Position a floor jack or transmission jack underneath the tank to support it. You may need to use a piece of wood to balance the tank.
Next, lower the tank slightly and slide the jack towards the rear as you lower it to keep the tank balanced. Remove the hose connection at the filler neck and cover the port to prevent a fuel leak. Get under the car and disconnect the retainer for the fuel supply/return and evap lines.
At this point, you should be able to drop the tank and pull it out to access the fuel pump. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the retaining ring for the fuel pump and sender assembly. Pull out the fuel pump and sender assembly, being careful with the wiring.
To install the new fuel pump, slide it into the housing and reconnect the wires. Install a new strainer and a new O-ring that comes with the fuel pump. Tighten the nuts in a cross-over pattern. Connect the supply, evap, and return lines, as well as the wiring harness.
Finally, remount the tank by bolting the tank straps and cross straps. Connect the filler neck hose and tighten the bolts.
By following these steps, you can access and replace the fuel pump located inside the fuel tank of a 1996 Impala.
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The fuel tank must be removed from the vehicle or accessed via an interior panel
To replace the fuel pump in a 1996 Impala, you'll need to remove the fuel tank from the vehicle or access it via an interior panel. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
First, raise the rear of the vehicle. This will give you enough space to slide the fuel tank out. It is recommended to use a transmission jack to keep the tank mounted and stable during this process. Ensure the vehicle is secure by chocking the front wheels or placing something in front to prevent it from rolling forward.
Next, locate the filler neck and vent line connection. Loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck and twist the rubber hose to free it from the tank mount. Tighten the other end to prevent leaks.
After that, remove the tank strap mount bolts. These bolts can be a bit tricky to get back in place, so it's recommended to loosen and remove the nut while leaving the bolts in place for now. Take off the cross strap nut and move the tank strap out of the way.
Now, position a floor jack or transmission jack underneath the tank to support its weight. You can use a piece of wood cut to fit between the tank straps to help balance it. Apply pressure to the tank to relieve the load on the strap bolts, and then remove them.
Lower the tank slightly and slide the jack towards the rear as you lower it to maintain balance. Remember to disconnect the hose connection at the filler neck and cover the port to avoid fuel leaks.
At this point, you'll need to get under the car and disconnect the retainer for the fuel supply, return, and evap lines, which are located directly above the rear end.
Now, you can begin to remove the fuel pump and sender assembly. This will require fully dropping the tank, so don't try to cheat by only lowering it partially, as it will be a waste of time.
With the tank lowered, you'll have easier access to the fuel supply and return lines. Use a fuel line disconnect tool to detach these lines. Select the appropriately sized tool and insert it into the connection with the sleeve facing up. Push it in, and if you need to apply force, ensure that you're fully engaging the quick disconnect (QD).
Once the lines are disconnected, you're ready to drop the tank and pull it out for further work. Don't forget to disconnect the wiring harness from the retainers on the body.
Now, with the tank out, clean the area above it before removing the retaining ring for the fuel pump and sender assembly. This retaining ring is typically held in place with six 10mm nuts.
After removing the retaining ring, pull out the fuel pump and sender assembly. Be careful when handling the wiring, especially the purple wire, as it has a tight retainer and you don't want to break the sender assembly.
It is recommended to install a new in-tank harness and compare it to the old one to ensure the wires are in the proper terminal locations.
Slide the new fuel pump into the housing and reconnect the wires. Install a new strainer to maintain your warranty.
Use the new O-ring that comes with the fuel pump and install the sender and pump assembly. Tighten the nuts in a cross-over pattern, typically to a torque specification of around 40 inch-pounds.
Now, you can put the tank back on the jack and get it close to the mounted position. Connect the supply, evap, and return lines, as well as the wiring harness.
Before remounting the tank, perform an operational check. Connect a fuel pressure gauge and wire or terminal clips to the battery-positive terminal and the fuel pump jumper. The gauge should read 45 psi or higher.
Finally, remount the tank by jacking it up and bolting the passenger-side strap first. You may need to adjust the filler neck hose back on, and you can use a set of tapered punches to align the tank strap and mount holes. Loosely mount the driver's side forward tank strap mount first, and then install the rear bolt. Once all the hardware is loosely installed, tighten everything up.
Remember to take the necessary safety precautions when performing this job, and always refer to a qualified mechanic or repair manual for more detailed instructions if needed.
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A floor jack or transmission jack can be used to support the tank
A floor jack or transmission jack is essential for supporting the fuel tank during the fuel pump replacement process. Here are some detailed instructions on how to use these jacks effectively:
First, ensure your workspace is clear of any debris and put on protective gear, such as safety glasses and gloves. This step is crucial for your safety. Before using the jack, it is important to inspect it for any signs of damage or wear and ensure it is not exceeding its load capacity.
To use a floor jack, place a piece of wood between the tank straps to help balance the tank. Apply pressure to the tank to relieve the load on the strap bolts. The bolts should then be easy to remove. As you lower the tank, adjust the jack towards the rear to maintain the tank's balance.
Transmission jacks, on the other hand, are specialized tools designed for automotive repair and maintenance. They are essential for safely handling heavy vehicle transmissions during repair, maintenance, installation, or removal. When using a transmission jack, ensure it is correctly positioned so that the lifting platform is directly under the designated support points of the transmission. Use the jack handle to gently raise the transmission, monitoring its balance throughout the process. For heavier transmissions, opt for a heavy-duty transmission jack.
If you are having trouble finding a suitable adapter for your fuel tank, consider using a combination of a cart and a jack. Place one end of the tank on a cart and the other end under the jack, then raise the vehicle using the lift. Alternatively, you can use two jacks and place a 2x4 across each jack pad on each end of the tank to distribute the weight evenly. This method may require additional people to control the second jack and ensure the tank's stability.
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The fuel pump is electric and located inside the fuel tank
To replace the fuel pump in a 1996 Impala, you will need to remove the fuel tank. First, raise the rear of the vehicle. You can then loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck and vent line connection, and remove the tank strap mount bolts. Position a floor jack or transmission jack to support the tank and relieve the pressure on the bolts for the straps. You can then remove the bolts and lower the tank.
Disconnect the retainer for the fuel supply/return and evap lines, and then drop the tank. You will need a fuel line disconnect tool to disconnect the fuel supply and return lines.
Now you can remove the old fuel pump and sender assembly, and install the new one. You will also need to install a new strainer to keep your warranty valid.
Finally, you can remount the tank, connect the supply, evap and return lines, and perform an operational check.
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The fuel pump can be replaced with a new one
Yes, the fuel pump can be replaced with a new one. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
First, you'll want to raise the rear of the vehicle. The recommended height is to have the rear wheels of the Wagon about 3" off the ground. This will allow you to use a transmission jack to keep the tank mounted and slide it out. Remember to chock the front wheels or put something in front to prevent the car from rolling forward.
Next, you'll want to loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck and one on the vent line. Twist the rubber hose to help free it off the tank mount. When the tank mount end comes loose, tighten back up the other end.
Now, remove the tank strap mount bolts. They are 13mm and can be a bit tricky to get back in place. Loosen and remove the nut, but leave the bolts in place for now. Take the cross strap nut off and push the tank strap out of the way.
Position a floor jack or transmission jack underneath the tank to support it. You can use a piece of wood cut to fit between the tank straps to help balance it. Put some pressure on the tank to take the load off the bolts for the straps, which should now come out with little effort.
Lower the tank a little and slide the jack towards the rear as you lower it to maintain balance. Remove the hose connection at the filler neck and cover the port to prevent a fuel leak.
Get under the car and disconnect the retainer for the fuel supply/return and evap lines. These are located directly above the rear end.
Now, fully drop the tank. You won't be able to remove the fuel pump and sender assembly without doing this.
With the tank lowered, you will have easier access to the fuel supply and return lines. Move the rubber boot out of the way and you'll see the QD. Use a fuel line disconnect tool to disconnect the lines.
Now you're ready to drop the tank and pull it out so you can work on it. Don't forget to disconnect the wiring harness from the retainers on the body. Once the tank is out, clean the area above the retaining ring for the fuel pump and sender assembly.
The retainer is held in place with six 10mm nuts. Remove these and pull out the fuel pump and sender assembly. Take the cap off the fuel pump housing, being careful when pulling out the purple wire as it has a tight retainer.
It is strongly suggested that you install a new in-tank harness. Compare the new one to the old one and make sure the wires are in the proper terminal location.
Slide the new fuel pump into the housing and reconnect the wires. Install a new strainer to keep your warranty valid.
Use the new O-ring that comes with the new fuel pump and install the sender and pump assembly. Tighten the nuts in a cross over pattern.
Put the tank on the jack and get it close to being mounted. Connect the supply, evap and return lines, and the wiring harness.
Now, perform an operational check. Connect a lead to the battery-positive terminal and another to the fuel pump "jumper". The gauge should read 45psi or better.
Finally, remount the tank. One way to do this is to completely remove the driver's side strap and cross strap. Jack the tank up and get the passenger side strap bolted in. Now, fight the filler neck hose back on, and use a set of tapered punches to help align the tank strap and mount holes.
Loosely mount the driver's side forward tank strap mount, which will help you install the rear bolt more easily. When all the hardware is loosely installed, tighten them all up.
And there you have it! You've successfully replaced the fuel pump in your 1996 Impala.
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Frequently asked questions
It is not recommended to access the fuel pump from inside the car. Cutting a hole in the floor of the car can create an access point for rust and water damage. It is also a hazardous process due to the proximity of fuel lines.
The fuel pump can be accessed by removing the fuel tank from the vehicle. This can be done by raising the rear of the vehicle, removing the filler neck and vent line connections, and disconnecting the fuel supply, return, and evap lines.
Signs of a bad fuel pump include a car that won't start, a car that stalls after starting, a check engine light turning on, or a whirring sound coming from the fuel tank.
It is generally recommended to replace a bad fuel pump rather than attempting to fix it.
The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank of the vehicle.