Katerina Swanson
The global footwear industry is expected to surpass a staggering 95 billion dollars by 2025. With over 20 billion shoes manufactured annually, the production process emits significant amounts of carbon dioxide, contributing to 1.4% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Shoes are predominantly crafted from synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels, which take years to decompose. As consumers become increasingly aware of the sustainability issues surrounding fashion, the consumption of fossil fuels to feed the latest footwear trends is becoming less appealing. This has led to the growth of the global sustainable footwear market, which is currently estimated at 8.5 billion dollars and is projected to reach 13 billion dollars by 2030.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of shoes made every year | 24 billion pairs |
| Materials derived from fossil fuels | Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), synthetic polymers, plastics, coal, oil, and gas |
| Environmental impact | 75% of global greenhouse gas emissions, 1.4% of global greenhouse gas emissions |
| Alternative materials | Plant-based polymers, corn-based midsoles, bio-based versions, sugarcane, algae |
| Companies with sustainability initiatives | Saucony, Crocs, Pangaia, Nike, Gucci, Native Shoes |
| Manufacturing emissions | Injection moulding, foaming, cutting, sewing, transportation |
| Biodegradability | Natural materials: 25-80 years, Leather: 25-40 years, Rubber: 50-80 years, Synthetic materials: up to 1000 years |
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What You'll Learn
Synthetic polymers in soles
The sole is a crucial component of any shoe, providing appropriate cushioning, support, and durability. Synthetic polymers, or plastics, are commonly used in shoe soles due to their ability to meet the demanding performance requirements. These synthetic polymers can be tailored to specific needs, such as the flexibility required for athletic performance or the aesthetic appeal of fashion shoes. Additionally, they offer benefits such as durability and cost-effectiveness.
One commonly used synthetic polymer in shoe soles is ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), a lightweight and flexible foam known for its excellent cushioning properties. EVA is often used in the midsoles of athletic shoes and casual footwear, providing rebound and comfort during physical activities. It combines the flexibility and durability of rubber with the processing advantages of plastics. However, EVA has some considerations, such as its tendency to degrade over time, especially when exposed to UV light.
Another synthetic polymer used in shoe soles is polyurethane (PU), which can be rigid or flexible and is resistant to abrasion. PU foam is lightweight and provides cushioning, making it ideal for footwear without adding unnecessary weight. It is commonly used in midsoles, insoles, and padding for enhanced comfort. PU can also mimic the appearance of natural leather and is used in synthetic leather uppers.
While synthetic polymers offer many advantages, there is a growing awareness of the sustainability issues associated with their use. Many synthetic polymers, including EVA, are derived from fossil fuels, contributing to the carbon footprint of the footwear industry. The manufacturing processes, such as foaming and injection molding, account for a significant portion of a shoe's carbon impact. As a result, there is a shift towards more sustainable alternatives, such as plant-based polymers and bio-based materials.
Companies like Kuraray offer sustainable styrenic block copolymers, such as the SEPTON™ BIO-series, which is made from beta-farnesene derived from sugarcane. These bio-based polymers can improve the sustainability, performance, and comfort of footwear while maximizing the bio-content of the products. Additionally, brands like Saucony and Crocs are incorporating plant-based and recycled materials into their shoes, reducing their carbon footprint and addressing the sustainability concerns of consumers.
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Plant-based alternatives
Many shoes are made using synthetic materials produced with fossil fuels, such as coal, oil, and gas. These fossil fuels account for a large proportion of global greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change. As consumers become increasingly aware of the sustainability issues surrounding fashion, the demand for eco-friendly footwear is rising.
Plant-based polymers are gaining interest as an alternative to fossil fuels in shoe production. These polymers are identical in structure to those made with fossil fuels but are derived from renewable plant sources. For example, bio-based EVA foam, a material used in shoe soles, can be made from renewable sugarcane feedstock. Native Shoes, for instance, uses a blend of sugarcane and EVA called Sugarlite™, which has a carbon footprint that is 22% lower than traditional EVA.
Another example of a bio-based EVA foam is SweetFoam® technology, offered by Allbirds. This material is made from sugarcane feedstock sourced responsibly from southern Brazil. It is renewable, grows quickly, and contributes to a reduced carbon footprint compared to traditional EVA.
In addition to sugarcane, corn is also being used as a plant-based alternative in shoe production. Running brand Saucony has launched the Triumph RFG, a running shoe with a corn-based midsole. Over half of the midsole is made from CovationBio PDO's Susterra® Propanediol, a specialty diol made from corn sugar. This initiative underscores Saucony's commitment to incorporating recycled, organic, or renewable materials into their products by 2030.
Furthermore, BLUEVIEW offers eco-friendly shoes made from plant-based materials such as hemp, TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber, and organic cotton. Their shoes feature plant-based polyurethane foam and biodegradable knitted uppers made from hemp and eucalyptus yarn. All components of their shoes are designed to biodegrade under aerobic composting conditions, with the rate of biodegradation depending on the specific part and the environment it is placed in.
By switching from fossil fuels to plant-based alternatives, shoe manufacturers can reduce their environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable future.
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Fossil fuels in manufacturing
The manufacturing of shoes has a significant environmental impact, with the production of a typical pair of running shoes generating 30 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions. This is largely due to the energy required to power manufacturing plants, with coal being the dominant source of electricity in China, where the majority of the world's shoes are produced. The manufacturing processes, such as foaming and injection moulding, also contribute significantly to carbon emissions.
The use of fossil fuels in shoe manufacturing is a particular cause for concern. Synthetic polymers, or plastics, are commonly used in shoe soles due to their durability and cushioning properties. However, these polymers are often derived from fossil fuels, contributing to the industry's carbon footprint. Additionally, traditional synthetic leathers made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other polymers are associated with fossil fuel usage.
In response to the environmental impact of shoe manufacturing, many companies are striving to adopt more sustainable practices. Some brands are exploring the use of plant-based polymers, such as Saucony's corn-based midsoles and Pangaia's grape-based "leather." Others are turning to bio-based materials, like Native Shoes' use of algae and sugarcane to create sustainable alternatives to fossil fuel-derived EVA foam.
While transitioning from fossil fuels to sustainable alternatives is challenging, companies like Crocs are making efforts by replacing their fossil fuel-based Croslite™ material with a bio-based version. Running company On has even launched a completely circular running shoe made mostly from polymers derived from castor beans. Additionally, companies like Nike and Gucci are implementing recycling programs and creating shoes from bioplastic.
The demand for eco-friendly footwear is increasing, and companies are responding by exploring sustainable alternatives, ethical material sourcing, and improved waste disposal methods. Collaboration across the industry is crucial to address the environmental impact of shoe manufacturing and reduce the use of fossil fuels in the production process.
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Shoe waste and disposal
Shoe waste is a significant contributor to environmental degradation. The manufacturing of shoes, particularly the foaming and injection moulding of sneaker soles, expends large amounts of energy and releases harmful emissions. Shoes are predominantly made from synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels, such as ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), a type of expanded plastic. These fossil fuel-based materials are not easily biodegradable and can take up to 40 years to decompose in landfills, releasing toxic chemicals into the air and soil.
The environmental impact of shoe waste is substantial, with over 24 billion pairs of shoes made every year, and an estimated 200 million pairs discarded in US landfills annually. This has led to a growing awareness among consumers about the sustainability issues surrounding fashion and footwear.
To address this issue, several companies and organisations have implemented initiatives to reduce shoe waste and promote sustainable practices:
- GotSneakers is a zero-waste sneaker recycling company that redistributes wearable shoes and recycles old sneakers for materials and energy. They have recycled and reused 3.5 million pairs of shoes, preventing 105 million pounds of CO2 from entering the atmosphere.
- Soles4Souls is a program that allows individuals to donate gently used shoes, which are then sold in developing countries. They also assist entrepreneurs in these countries in establishing stores to sell second-hand shoes.
- Terracycle, a privately owned company, offers a zero-waste shoe box starting at $142, which individuals can fill with old shoes for recycling.
- Brands like Nike and Timberland have introduced shoe recycling programs, with some Nike stores accepting shoes from any brand.
- Buy Nothing is a platform where people can give away items for free, including footwear, to those in their local community.
- Shoe companies like Saucony and Crocs are transitioning to plant-based and bio-based materials, such as corn-based midsoles and plant-based waste transformed into footwear using ECOLIBRIUM™ technology.
- Pangaia, a bio-based fashion company, offers Grape Sneakers made from repurposed waste from the wine industry, providing a plant-based alternative to leather.
- Native Shoes™ is committed to creating a positive future for people and the planet by using bio-based materials, such as Bloom, made from overgrown algae, and Sugarlite™, made from renewable sugarcane.
These initiatives demonstrate a shift towards more sustainable practices in the footwear industry, reducing shoe waste and disposal in landfills, and mitigating the environmental impact of manufacturing processes.
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Sustainable footwear market
Many shoes are made using synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels, such as coal, oil, and gas. These fossil fuels account for a large proportion of global greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change. As a result, the sustainable footwear market is growing as consumers become more conscious of the environmental impact of their fashion choices.
The global sustainable footwear market was estimated at USD 8.46 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach USD 12.96 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 6.4% from 2024 to 2030. The Asia-Pacific region is expected to be the fastest-growing market for sustainable footwear due to factors such as fast urbanization, rising disposable incomes, and increasing environmental consciousness.
The sustainable footwear market is driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and ethically produced goods, as well as government regulations and incentives promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Companies are responding by incorporating recycled and sustainable materials into their product lines, such as recycled PET plastics, organic cotton, and plant-based leathers made from sources like pineapple leaves, mushrooms, and cactus.
Some specific examples of sustainable footwear initiatives include Saucony's Triumph RFG running shoe, which features a corn-based midsole, and Crocs' collaboration with Dow to create a bio-based version of their iconic clogs using plant-based waste and by-products. Additionally, companies like Native Shoes are creating innovative materials such as Sugarlite™, a sugarcane-based supercritical foam, and Bloom, a natural material made from algae.
The sustainable footwear industry is also experiencing a growing level of merger and acquisition activities, with larger, traditional footwear brands acquiring smaller, innovative companies specializing in sustainable materials and practices to enhance their sustainability credentials and meet regulatory demands.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, shoes are often made with materials derived from fossil fuels. For example, the foamy soles of running shoes are usually made from ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), a type of expanded plastic often made from petrochemicals.
Any shoes with EVA soles are likely to be made from fossil fuels. This includes popular shoes like Asics gel Kayanos and Crocs.
Yes, shoes are bad for the environment. They are often made with materials derived from fossil fuels, which are a major contributor to climate change. The manufacturing process for shoes also requires a lot of energy and creates a lot of carbon dioxide emissions. Shoes take a long time to biodegrade, and the glues and chemicals used in their production can be toxic.
There are a few alternatives to shoes made from fossil fuels. Some companies are creating shoes made from bio-based materials, such as Saucony's Triumph RFG running shoe, which has a corn-based midsole. Other companies are creating shoes made from recycled materials, such as Pangaia's Grape Sneakers, which are made from repurposed waste from the wine industry.
You can reduce the environmental impact of your shoes by buying shoes made from sustainable materials, such as bio-based or recycled materials. You can also resell or donate your used shoes to keep them out of landfills, or recycle them through programs offered by companies like Nike.
